Vacuum Pump
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 705
Likes: 1
From: Sandia Park, NM
Nothing. That is not a port. It is open on my truck, as well as all pictures I have seen. Sounds like you need to pull your hub/bearing assemblies and install new yellow o-rings. Hook a mighty-vac to the vacuum port on each hub to find out who the bad boy is.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 3
From: Northwest Indiana
I should have mentioned that we have Warn manual hubs & the vacuum line down to the hubs has been capped-off up top. The only thing that I can add is that when we're KOEO & I place my hand between the pump & the fender I can feel air blowing on my hand. That little bugger never shuts off & is just continually running, is it that way for everybody?
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 705
Likes: 1
From: Sandia Park, NM
Couldn't tell you as I have the factory ESOF hubs. A vacuum pump has to displace the air somewhere. If my truck didn't need batteries I'd go check for you. I would guess you have a leak at one of your caps or elsewhere. This is where a mighty-vac comes in handy.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
That port is left open like that. Make sure the pump is actually working (you should be able to hear it when you turn the key on without starting the vix)... best way I found to test the whole system and identify where the leak was to use a hand vacuum pump. I think I paid like $30 for mine. Just start at the top and work your way to the ends until you find which one doesnt hold the vacuum. Pretty simple and pretty quick actually. have fun
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
i just read your post that you already know its working.. clearly you have a leak as its not stopping. use a vacuum pump to identify where your leak is.
I had a really dried up hose that leaked just enough. Replaced it and was good to go
I had a really dried up hose that leaked just enough. Replaced it and was good to go
Last edited by MalwareDRay; Sep 10, 2013 at 08:28 PM. Reason: added info
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
OP, get a mity vac (hand vacuum pump) and start testing the vacuum lines starting at the pump and following them to each joint until you find the leak. The bad news? There is no bad news, the mity vac is a great buy, you'll find all kinds of uses for it, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to find your leak, and vacuum line and fittings is super inexpensive.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 3
From: Northwest Indiana
So I got a chance to start my safari. The line running through the firewall appears to be the culprit. There is also an additional connection at the firewall that could be the issue but I cannot easily get to it without removing the wheel liner. I'm assuming the connection at the firewall is to prevent chaffing of the vacuum lines on the firewall itself. What I'm wondering is can I just run a new line straight through the firewall & bypass that connection?
Also, is the "thingy" (yeah, that's how I describe lots of stuff) in the picture below to activate the auto hubs? If it is, I'm thinking of trying to get as few connections in possible in the new line.
Also, is the "thingy" (yeah, that's how I describe lots of stuff) in the picture below to activate the auto hubs? If it is, I'm thinking of trying to get as few connections in possible in the new line.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
So I got a chance to start my safari. The line running through the firewall appears to be the culprit. There is also an additional connection at the firewall that could be the issue but I cannot easily get to it without removing the wheel liner. I'm assuming the connection at the firewall is to prevent chaffing of the vacuum lines on the firewall itself. What I'm wondering is can I just run a new line straight through the firewall & bypass that connection?
Also, is the "thingy" (yeah, that's how I describe lots of stuff) in the picture below to activate the auto hubs? If it is, I'm thinking of trying to get as few connections in possible in the new line.
Also, is the "thingy" (yeah, that's how I describe lots of stuff) in the picture below to activate the auto hubs? If it is, I'm thinking of trying to get as few connections in possible in the new line.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 3
From: Northwest Indiana
Now I'm having trouble locating vacuum lines locally. 
The hard vacuum lines at the auto parts stores are only 3' long, I could chain a whole bunch of them together, but I was hoping to eliminate as many connections as possible. RockAuto appears to sell "soft" bulk lines @ 5/32 with an ID of 3/16, which would fit right on the vacuum reservoir, but then I would need to rig a couple pieces to get the correct size on the other end to connect behind the glove box. Anyone see any problems with taking this route?
The hard vacuum lines at the auto parts stores are only 3' long, I could chain a whole bunch of them together, but I was hoping to eliminate as many connections as possible. RockAuto appears to sell "soft" bulk lines @ 5/32 with an ID of 3/16, which would fit right on the vacuum reservoir, but then I would need to rig a couple pieces to get the correct size on the other end to connect behind the glove box. Anyone see any problems with taking this route?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I can get carried away... sorry. I was just saying the OP needs to search for a vacuum leak (bad suction).
Rigid vac line is a dealer item?
Rigid vac line is a dealer item?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
I think he found hard and soft line, but the parts stores only carry it in 3' packages. I'm sure you can find exactly what you're after online in a 50' roll for next to nothing. If it was me, I'd probably use soft line from the part store and splice it where I needed too. That's just me though
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