So I'm cruising along today and I hear a chime from the dashboard. I look down and there's a CEL and a "Reduced Engine Power" message on my display. I drove it the rest of the way to the house, about 5 miles, and parked it. 25,000 miles on this truck, had every service performed at a dealership according to the severe duty maintenance schedule.

I plugged in my scantool (which I hoped I would never have to use on this truck) and I get a P0087-Fuel rail pressure too low- I have an AE but I didn't pay $50K for a truck to use tools on it, so I don't know if it would help or not. System check on the dash says everything is fine and I just had a service done on it last week.

I suspect that this is the beginning of the dreaded $10k cab-off fuel system change that I have heard about.

I have receipts for every drop of fuel that has ever gone into this truck, I have never used off road fuel, bio-diesel, or anything from an L-tank. I just filled it up yesterday on my way back from Houston at a busy name brand fuel station right next to the interstate. It has the same name as the thing a hermit crab lives in.

Closest dealer says I'm too far away for them to come get it, 35 miles is max they will go. I'm about to call my insurance company and get their input on this, but I doubt they will be fluent in this area.

Has anyone got any advice before I make my next move?
I've heard that comprehensive insurance will cover the repairs if its a fuel quality issue. Can anyone verify that?

I'm liking my 7.3 more and more every day..........

 

May just be be a clogged fuel filter, unless your shop replaced them. If so, air in the lines will cause this after a fuel filter change that was not properly purged. (key on for a few seconds, then off for a total of six times) If not, should have been changed 13K ago. Not sure what kind of truck you have or how old since your sig is old stuff

 

It's a 2012 F-350 cab/chassis that I've had for about a year now. I have had the fuel filters changed on it twice now, with the most recent change being last week. First change was at 12,500. I drove to Houston and back on the new filters so any air should be out of the system by now. It's got a bout 700 miles on the new fuel filters.

 

I'd change the filters and clear the code myself and go from there.

 

The worst fuel I ever got was from a TA truck stop. Did the pump seem slow? It was my 6 liter. Why the hell do they have to use liters any way? Whats wrong with Cubic Inches? I always have to divide 389 by 6.5 to come up with about 60 cubic inches per litre as it was spelled. You old timers know what I'm talking about. Back to ****ty fuel. The pump ran slow and I stopped using it. A few days later my WIF light came on and when the separator was drained they found the remains of a dead dinosaur, a ground up VW and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich in it. They dropped the tank, changed the filters, flushed the lines and decided to change the separator too. Change your filters and see what is in them. It can take bad fuel a few days to clog the filter. I thought that they had some kind of filters on fuel station pumps. This was in the car section though. If they did and that is why it was slow, really slow, how does crap get past the filter. But I have a 1 micron water filter in the house and stuff gets past it too.

 

Since the filters were just changed I would start there. Look for leaks in particular. Air still in the system is possible, but if you've been driving it daily it's not the first thing I would suspect. Let us know the resolution too please!

 

Update-
Cleared the code and drove it for about 50 miles. Easy at first and then ran it hard. No codes and appears to be back to normal.
Visual inspection found no leaks and nothing appeared to be out of the ordinary. Perhaps it was just air in the system, but I'm surprised that it would take over 700 miles to get it out of there if that was the case. Hopefully it's a done deal.
Thanks for the input.

 

Not sure if this holds true for every vehicle but I know I have cleared codes in the past without actually doing anything except clearing the code and it usually came back at around the 80-90 mile marker.Before 100 for sure.Never had to clear a code on my 6.7 yet.Hopefully you are in the clear ,just posting my experience with code clearing.

 

When I purchased my 6.7, my diesel tech buddy was extremely adamant about filling the bottom filter with fresh fuel before putting it back on. He said they saw a lot of low pressure pump failures when the quick lane guys would do a filter service on the 6.7s. Owner would be back a few days later with the same scenario as the original poster. Said these low pressure pumps are extremely "finicky" compared to the 6.4 and 6.0 low pressure pumps.

 

So putting the filter in dry and just doing key on/key off to fill and purge per the owners manual is causing the low pressure pump to fail?

 

Not gonna put that in stone, but he did say after they instructed the quick lane guys to put some fuel in them before the Key On process that it cut the number of 6.7s coming in for low pressure pumps down a lot. I wouldn't figure the few seconds it was sucking air would be that big of a deal, but I guess it could be.

 

i usually do more than the 6 key cycles. if you are in a quiet area, you can hear the air in the system. I keep doing it until the noise caused by the air is gone.

 

I do to. At least 8. Sometimes more depending on the various noises.
It's about 15 seconds before you hear the LPFP siphon the tank.

 

Let us know how it goes.....

But fuel RAIL pressure if after the HPFP. Should not be effected by the low pressure pump (unless it is starving the HPFP I suppose). I used to get P0087 on some very early tunes that used too much fuel and ran the rail dry.

If there is a problem with the low pressure pump most people were getting P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
or P008A - Low Pressure Fuel System Pressure - Too Low


Good luck