When I get up in the mornings and make my 10 mile commute to work my AC is icebox cold, I could hang meat in there. But after a long long day (about 9 - 10 hours) when I get back in my 96 Explorer to head out -- driving about 30 miles -- the AC never gets cool. It feels like it's just a vent siphoning in the hot air from the outside. This has been going on for about the past week.

Anyone have any insight into what could be causing this issue?

 

Yeah, when was the last time you had your AC system serviced or checked? An AC service make sure the system is operating in tip top condition and is not an expensive procedure, and if done as a routine maintenace on the AC system every few years, it does help the system last longer and be more trouble free.

Do not attempt to charge or service the system yourself unless you are also prepared to buy the proper tools and to educate yourself on the operation of AC systems and procedures. The DIY kits sold in auto parts stores do not allow you to diagnose the issue, and in many cases take what could have been as low as a $35 AC service at a local repair shop and turn it into a $1500 total system rebuild. The DIY kits do not measure pressures properly, and if you end up overcharging it can and often does cause serious damage.

The bare minimum tools you need to diagnose an AC problem is:
a manifold gauge set (a cheaper set will do fine its just not as convenient or as durable as a nicer set)
2 temperature probes (one for reading ambient temperature, and one for the temperature at the vents)
A book on AC systems, Haynes and Chiltons make a descent one.

There are many other tools involved, the above items can allow you to check if the system is properly charged, if an actual repair is needed, you will need lots of other tools. Some are expensive, others are cheap. But the above listed items allow you to take readings and measurements, and see what is going on. The book arms you with the knowledge you need to properly interpret the readings, especially if something is going on other than a low or high charge.

If the DIY route seems to complicated, I've had basic AC service as low as $35, obviously if leaks or other problems are found, it can cost more to have it fixed. Just because the season is nearing its end doesn't mean that a repair should be put off. The AC system is used in the winter to dry the air for defrosting purposes. If there is an issue, and it remains unfixed, the AC system can be damaged and self destruct, and again it could turn a simple minor leak repair into a total system rebuild, which can be quite expensive.

 

Well, from what I had to go though, it took a few days and a posting on the van section here, but I got it working buy a simple re-charge with a Canadian Tire 12A kit for $50. Hardest part was finding the dang low side port.

Deleted text to remove bad advice.

Go to the web site for the product and they give clear instructions. If you have a mechanic you use I recommend having them help you do it.

I wouldn't recommend this for a nice shiny new car or
EDITED:
anything you care about, it's an option to save money at the risk of damaging your system...

 

I'm gonna advise you to ignore this comment, as he is instructing you to do the exact thing that could ruin your system. To make this as plain as possible, I will lay out the reasons why.

1. DIY kits usually only come with a cheap low pressure gauge if that. The Canadian Tire kit is no exception.

2. The Canadian tire kit is a generic multi-refrigerant replacement. This means several things. Firstly, you are not replacing your old refrigerant with the same type. Refrigerants of different types firstly do not often mix well. What often happens is an effect called stratification where the refrigerant and the oils can separate from each other. This causes poor performance, lubrication failure, icing, pressure fluctuations, etc. Secondly, it is not legal to mix them. So in order to use such a product, you need to use a reclaim machine to remove the old refrigerant. This means going to a mechanic, who will likely charge somewhere in the ballpark of $35 - $80 for this service. Add that to the $54 price tag of the product, and you've already set yourself back between $89 - $134 worse off than you were before, unless you happen to be one of the lucky few that owns a reclaim machine.

3. You claim that adding this cannot hurt your system on a vehicle that is already old. Well, adding anything to your system without first diagnosing what is wrong with the system. You are blindly assuming, and encouraging others to assume, that the problem is a low refrigerant condition. Simple fact, you don't know that. If the issue is low coolant, then adding something might fix the issue. But if there is another underlying problem, which might be minor or might be serious, you can catastrophically destroy components by adding refrigerant. Lets say the issue is actually already an overcharge. Well the useless gauge that comes with these products won't alert you to this fact, because R-134a systems are not pressurized and tuned based on low side pressure, they are pressurized and tuned and filled based on a ratio of high side pressure, ambient temperature, and relationship to low side pressure. What the low side pressure actually is depends on lot on workload. There are so many variables that it makes it both impossible and irresponsible to even attempt filling based on the low side pressures. So lets say a car has a partially plugged evaporator core. Well, the cooling efficiency will drop, which will make the low side pressure drop, which will make the system seem to be undercharged. If you measured the high side pressure, one would see that it is in the normal and acceptable range. If you added refrigerant to such a system, the high side pressure would end up being way to high, and the compressor could fail as a result. Obviously that counts as harm.

4. I am certified with the EPA to service, repair, and diagnose mobile air conditioning systems. I know how to do it, and I have seen the kind of damage that improper repairs can cause, and I have a good idea of how expensive such repairs can end up being. I do not currently work in the automotive repair industry, so there is no conflict of interest in my stating this information, but even if I was in that field, I am not in the OPs area. My experience can be helpful to help solve the issue. The information I have expressed is factual. The information that others often express is either opinion or luck. I would rather tell someone who to diagnose and then fix their problem, then to share my blind luck experience, and encourage someone else to try the same solution at their own risk.

 

I stand corrected and really do appreciate you setting me straight. I guess I was just lucky, My system was dry as a bone and nothing was in there when we tested it with the cheepo gauge. I will say that they do give you lots of warning in the instructions and make it very clear that this is best done by a qualified shop.There is no such thing were I live, so there was a lot of background reading done before I made the move. My Van is a 93 so also needed the conversion done too which is sort of supplied in the kit. Anyway it worked for me and I agree with all you have said. I will change my first post so as to not spread bad info on the net.

 

I took it to one of the "We Check A/C for Free" places and they told me my compressor is locked up. They quoted me $1200 to replace the compressor/pulley which I thought was CRAZY! esp with this being a 1996 model (don't want to put much $$ into it).

How could the compressor be leaking but yet the morning times (like 8 or 9 am) it blows ICE COLD, but by afternoon it's not getting cold. That baffles me as (my uneducated self) feel that if there is Freon in the unit it should remain cold, regardless of time of day, now if there is a leak, then depending on where in the compressor the leak is, the Freon would eventually just drip out until all the Freon had left the system and my vehicle would need new Freon.

 

They havn't used Freon since 1993 but we know what you mean. The compressor could be buggered. But your symptoms sound like you low on refrigerant. And yes it can all cost you more than you can purchase another truck for, about $1,000 for a 1996 Explorer, I had a chance to get a 98 for $450 the other day, the vehicle was immaculate but it needed trany work so nobody would touch it. Apparently it has gone to the wreckers. It's simply a bummer when these things go on older vehicles. You either live with it or start shopping.
Funny thing is my A/C works great in mine but will never be used again as it will be a snowplow. It has a dozen other things gone wrong, no door locks, Passenger window, Mirrors, interior lights, lots of crazy electrical stuff, but motor is still great @ 240,000 K.

 

Grr....
Mine has 254K miles on it, and drives like a champ! ***Knock on Wood*** this is the only major repair I have had to think about doing. How difficult is it to change a compressor on your own? Ever had to perform that repair?

 

I think it's a little tricky because of the special couplings on the refrigerant lines might be all ceased up. Legally speaking we are not to vent the refrigerant into the atmosphere so the tricky thing is draining it into a "safe" container. or?? The newer refrigerant which should be R 134a is not as harmful as Freon. You can also do serious harm to your person. So I personally wouldn't attempt it, but, hey, you might find enough information by digging around on the web on how to. Sometimes one has not much choice but to dive in there and hope for the best.

Did those guys check for pressure? If you very carefully with heavy gloves and eye protection, depress the low side charge port and see if anything comes out. It's just like a tire valve stem only a bit bigger, it should have a blue cap.. the Red cap is for Hi side. Low side is around 30 PSI and Hi Side more like 300psi. But this is all best done with the proper tools and gauges. Which get you back to a Wal Mart DIY type kit.

 

I do not buy that diagnosis. The compressor might be leaking which will cause a loss of cooling, and could be your issue. But if they claim the compressor is seizing, well, lets just say if that was the case you shouldn't be getting a y cold air at all. A locked up compressor will often either grenade internally, burn out its clutch, or break the serpentine belt. None if those seems to match your symptoms. That the problem with a "free" ac check is they first assume you are ignorant, and they want to take advantage of that ignorance if they can. They are basically phishing to see if you are willing to spend that kind if money.

Be advised however, if your compressor does need to be replaced, that price is not unusual. When replacing a compressor, that isn't the only part that must be replaced. You have to replace the drier, orifice tune, and hoses that are leaking, all hoses must be cleaned and flushed. And if "black death" is present, the condenser needs to be replaced, they do not flush well. So when a compressor fails, it is considered a catastrophic failure. The most common causes of failure is lack of maintenance, and running with a low charge.

 

What do you recommend I should try next? Should I take it to a more reputable dealer and see what there diagnosis is? Is there anything obvious that I can "look" for myself to see if I can find the cause?

Other than the air issue, this vehicle drives like a dream!

 

You can take it to another shop for a diagnosis, or you can get the tools and know how to diagnose it yourself. The tools can be found cheaply, a cheap tool works just fine for DIYers. And you need the other items I mentioned, namely a good book on the subject and some probe type thermometers.

 

Well I have officially now put this AC issue on the backburner as my vehicle will not turn over. When I place the key in and begin to turn the lights/radio come on, but when I try to turn it over all I get is click click click click click.

Related to AC issue or totally separate?


EDIT ---
One other note I should add...my vehicle the 'hood' won't stay propped up, the whatever that holds it up, aren't working. What piece is that so I can replace that before I begin to check the battery/alternator with this click click problem?

 

First is have your batter tested , Local parts store do it for free around here. If the Battery is good, and your connections are not corroded then your starter/ solenoid is probably shot.

Have you checked your belt? that might cause both alternator and Compressor to not function 100%

This is why I take my vehicle in for regular service. For say $100 for a service it's worth it to me.