Battery cable rebuild.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,083
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From: Walla Walla, WA
Here is a list of my supplies-
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink
Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)
1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends
9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink
Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)
1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends
9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground
Goin shopping today!! Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,604
Likes: 3
From: Fort Polk Louisiana
Here is a list of my supplies-
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink
Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)
1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends
9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink
Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)
1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends
9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground
This is the same install I used for my build, and was easy and relatively painless. HOWEVER: when making the negative to engine ground wire lengths, you will want about 3 to 5" longer to either side. Suggestion, no write up is the same for each truck, so Before cutting the wires to build the harness, when you take off the old negative to engine ground, measure from terminal end to terminal end, it will save you time and money.
The only part this instruction doesn't include is battery to starter solenoid relay to the charging side where the alternator wires are.
The easiest way I found was cut that cable from the old harness, and add a new ring terminal. It's worked for me so far, and it's been a few months.
This install was about the cheapest I found. about 70$ for all the welding wire, and another 15 for the terminals and solder pellets(ebay was the only place I found the pellets, and the 2/0ga 3/8" terminals).
I added new convoluted wrap for the positive wire, due to the radiator putting out a lot of heat(and its a six core aluminum radiator)
PREMIUM SPONSOR
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 217
From: North East Ohio
I have a 'tool box' dedicated to repairing battery cables. I only use the military style terminals, it's the way to go for sure. I also have a huge crimper that uses an air impact and it works perfectly.
It's only a few dollars per joint, instead of many $$$ for all new cable, unless there's an issue with your actual cable.
I never thought we'd do so many repairs but it seems almost every week we see bad cables.
It's only a few dollars per joint, instead of many $$$ for all new cable, unless there's an issue with your actual cable.
I never thought we'd do so many repairs but it seems almost every week we see bad cables.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,604
Likes: 3
From: Fort Polk Louisiana
I have a 'tool box' dedicated to repairing battery cables. I only use the military style terminals, it's the way to go for sure. I also have a huge crimper that uses an air impact and it works perfectly.
It's only a few dollars per joint, instead of many $$$ for all new cable, unless there's an issue with your actual cable.
I never thought we'd do so many repairs but it seems almost every week we see bad cables.
It's only a few dollars per joint, instead of many $$$ for all new cable, unless there's an issue with your actual cable.
I never thought we'd do so many repairs but it seems almost every week we see bad cables.
Also, Ohio salts their roads right? I know PA does(where I'm from originally), which would explain a lot. The cables I had on my truck were original, and never replaced after almost 2 decades of abuse from the road salt.
The insulation on the wires was almost just about green for about a foot past the terminal. That and all the terminals were fried. but stripping the wire, it was still nice enough to scrap as clean copper.
I need to do the bigger alternator now, with bigger gauge wire, with the fusible link to the charging post on the starter solenoid relay. The charging wire is just about shot.
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