Battery cable rebuild.
 

Looking for some advise on what size and type of wire to use. Also the terminals. I thought I saw a build thread somewhere, but I can't seem to find it. Thanks fellas

I believe i used 1/0 gauge welding wire, copper eyelets, and marine connectors on the battery.

Put a couple extra grounds on while you're at it. Never too many grounds.

I would go 2/0 marine grade cable, as it is very fine stranded and therefore more flexible as well .

Found this
Taylor Cable 21542 1/0 Gauge SAE Black Welding/Battery Cable Kit:Amazon:Automotive

But I want different terminals with the post to add accessories.

This is pricey.. Look for a local marine supply store and check their pricing . They might have a scrap piece long enough

ANCOR MARINE Battery Cable at West Marine


You can order the cable online as well
Search for terminals on their page for some of your choice

FYI : unlike the welding cable, marine cable is tinned copper, therefore more corrosion resistant and it will last longer. Because it is fine stranded as well, it can carry a higher current . I will be replacing my cables soon as well .

Sweet thanks for the info

This guy has / had decent stuff....Custom Battery Cables F350 cables

My friend helped me with mine and he had some HUGE crimpers. Hope you do too!

If you do not crimp it, you can get solder connections and solder it with a torch

^^what he said^^ That's what I did.

^^^^^ Notice also that the builder above uses either crimp or solder "flag" terminals (something like this: NAPA AUTO PARTS ), and puts heat-shrink wrap on the joints. He does offer the "military" style terminals, but from what I've read, they're not as good a choice. Makes sense to me; it's one more point of disconnection (or two, in the case of the passenger-side battery), and those studs/posts don't seem like they'd carry much current. Besides, the most logical place to add wires for aftermarket accessories is the junction point on the starter relay, which is where every other part of the truck's electrical system gets its power.

Oh I got crimpers. I'm a lineman by trade. :)

Here is a list of my supplies-
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink

Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)

1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends

9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground