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They also stated that the truck would stall at times after hitting big bumps in the road. That's why I'm Leary on dunking a hpop in there.
That sure does sound like a wiring issue. There are several common spots that can chafe on the 03's, but with the number of times this particular engine has been wrenched on, I would go over all of the harness.
If I were looking at it, I would start looking around the FICM on the intake manifold bolts. Then I would move on to the cam and crank sensor wiring and connectors, the spot under the glow plug control module bracket, etc...
A breakout box for this job may have been nice to use...
I'm inclined to think wiring too and the AE "was" connected early but lost connection..IDK the reason behind that or if it wasn't truly reading from get go... PCM connections? Or body ground issues? since Ford likes to have ground points for specific components
DING,DING,DING, Antony, this happened to me,since I've heard this motor has been in and out numerous times,just for chits and giggles ck the connectors under the PCM,and the connector from the FICM to the PCM. I had a intermittent problem after I put my wreck back together and bingo it was the connector its self. these guys might have screwed it up taking apart sooo many times that it isn't staying together if ya know what I mean. I'm sure you have ck'd it but I just wanted to let you know......Bill
I'm thinking its got 2 issues,,, the main harness causing an intermittent issue,,, and the pump with a full time issue. I'm about to just do the pump. Not sure the funds allow for the harness too. Plus I'm not sure I've got the time to wait to get a harness in stock. 3 days. The pump is at the local dealer. And it's 12/12. Thoughts????
The harness definitely has issues. But the icp goes up smooth while cranking. No jumping or indication there's a short. Plus the "wiggle" test benefits none.
Sounds possible, plus the pump may be the source of the leak...orings not done right whatever... chance to look at screen too may give more insight since it's hard to diagnose HPOPs
I'm guessing that Anthony already checked for some type of operation of pump through filter housing...and that's not electrically controlled...purely engine driven, right?
Not sure I would do the pump first. I would lean finding the electrical issue first, if possible.
It's hard for me to believe it is another pump.
Agreed , i would not do the pump first and try to find the electric issue first . I really can't see a pump going out that fast , if a new one was put in before . It is so easy to screw up the connectors one this motor or not have one all the way in . Don't ask how i know . Good luck
I'm guessing that Anthony already checked for some type of operation of pump through filter housing...and that's not electrically controlled...purely engine driven, right?
It is not easy to figure out a pump problem , and it sets no code . Been there done that with mine . Mine you could here air blowing though it and Mike Chann told me it was probably the pump . But also had injector O rings on the top leaking .
The problem is your there and we're not, but chit happens and the rebuilt pumps have a history and noway to test them. I say go with your best instinct and ride capt ride !
It is not easy to figure out a pump problem , and it sets no code . Been there done that with mine . Mine you could here air blowing though it and Mike Chann told me it was probably the pump . But also had injector O rings on the top leaking .
Yeah...I agree and like Per4mance said no real way to test....
yes using air and holding up to to 10 mins is good way to check for other leaks... just because parts were replaced, we don't know if things were cleaned right, or shavings left behind, or if all orings were replaced ... up until now truck has gotten to NOLA starting with minimal or no leaks.... according to owners, it now has tons. BIG job for Anthony to have to go over possible shoddy work and engine pulled numerous times... Missing bolts in places too (probably). You know the notorious "spare parts bucket"....
I know it's been asked on here, but why not try it or tell me why this isn't possible? I'm trying to learn here. I know you're under a time constraint. No rush.
If you have an aftermarket filter in the oil filter housing, (she said her husband didn't use Motorcraft) wouldn't you have these issues with low ICP and trying to build it? Isn't it coincidence that this no-start happened right after an oil change? I understand that there are patented design features that the filters must engage for them to work properly. If the oil filter is not a Motorcraft (or a Raycor) filter, it may not properly engage a poppet valve on the bottom of the oil filter housing. That will leave the valve in the open position and effectively opens a 1/4inch hole in your oil system that is draining straight back to the oil pan.