Roller rockers :)
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
BUT, they are aluminum and for driving all day long like our trucks do I'd rather have steel.
There was a thread in one of the other FE forums not to long ago about a well respected American rocker that came apart in everyday driving.
It was aluminum.
Now obviously thats not going to happen every day.
But it comes down to this.
Do your research and buy what makes you happy.
If it f's up I'll be the first to tell you guys so know one else buys 'em.
Totally respect wanting HSs.
I'm choosing to respect the opinions of local racers that have used PRWs.
After all it IS an American company based right here in SoCal.
Like it or not we're all using parts from freakin' China in one thing or another.
I hate it as much as you do.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Even buying genuine Ford isn't any guarantee anymore.
Not China, but close enough! (this is a part for a dent'
)
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
Not trying to start a pissing contest here...
PRW's are fine if you're building a street motor that will rarely see anything north of 3,500 rpms....
....If you're building a motor that will consistently see revs over 5,500 rpms i'd go with the Harlands (or similar) jmo...
When parts start to break they will tell the tale......happy motoring.
PRW's are fine if you're building a street motor that will rarely see anything north of 3,500 rpms....
....If you're building a motor that will consistently see revs over 5,500 rpms i'd go with the Harlands (or similar) jmo...
When parts start to break they will tell the tale......happy motoring.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
Didn't take it that way at all.
We're just having a discussion.
All good, we are FE brothers after all.
I agree if your building a drag motor go for the absolute best.
And that is American.
But on our everyday trucks you have to weigh all the factors.
Good stuff guys.
We're just having a discussion.
All good, we are FE brothers after all.
I agree if your building a drag motor go for the absolute best.
And that is American.
But on our everyday trucks you have to weigh all the factors.
Good stuff guys.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
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Didn't take it that way at all.
We're just having a discussion.
All good, we are FE brothers after all.
I agree if your building a drag motor go for the absolute best.
And that is American.
But on our everyday trucks you have to weigh all the factors.
Good stuff guys.
We're just having a discussion.
All good, we are FE brothers after all.
I agree if your building a drag motor go for the absolute best.
And that is American.
But on our everyday trucks you have to weigh all the factors.
Good stuff guys.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
But i'm "selling" her hard on Barry's stroker kit
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
Doing a ****eload of research on ALL rockers.
Have found that the adjusters in the PRWs maybe be a little suspect (as in soft).
Cannot confirm it but I think I may throw a set of ARPs into mine just for grins.
As always, will inform.
Have found that the adjusters in the PRWs maybe be a little suspect (as in soft).
Cannot confirm it but I think I may throw a set of ARPs into mine just for grins.
As always, will inform.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 1
From: Suburbs of Chicago
Have you checked into scorpions rollers? Pretty cost efficient, made in the USA. Got em in my 412, taken it to 5500 and no pieces!
You could get the rockers and the adjusters for less than the harland sharps im guessing.
You could get the rockers and the adjusters for less than the harland sharps im guessing.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
Didn't know they existed.
Thanks for that.
Kinda interesting when you really get into it how much failure is out there.
Seems no matter what type (expensive or not) they are, with aluminum there is a fatigue life.
You just have to be smart for your application.
Which is why I initially went with steel only to find out the short comings of what I had purchased.
The crafting of your set up is key. Everything effects everything.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 600
Likes: 1
From: New Carlisle, Ohio
Working at a cylinder head company I've had the chance to be up close and personal with the PRW systems. I'm personally not a fan of them, but I'm also extremely **** when it comes to my engines. Harland Sharp is superior over the PRW, sounds like your putting some money into your engine so I wouldn't run PRW.
Btw contrary to what every one says, you can run an aluminum rocker on the street as a daily no problem. I've done it for a long time, the reason people have problems with running the aluminum rockers on the street is they have a rev happy engine and they're turning it extremely high in the 7 grand or higher range or incorrect pushrod length, adjustment, etc.
Now that's not to say steel is not better. Personally I would run steel, yes it may be a little heavier but its got better longevity and less deflection due to it's strength. The only advantage aluminum has over the steel is the lighter weight which brings the overall valve train weight down making it easier to rev. But unless your running a high rpm titianum valved race engine I wouldn't worry about it.
Btw contrary to what every one says, you can run an aluminum rocker on the street as a daily no problem. I've done it for a long time, the reason people have problems with running the aluminum rockers on the street is they have a rev happy engine and they're turning it extremely high in the 7 grand or higher range or incorrect pushrod length, adjustment, etc.
Now that's not to say steel is not better. Personally I would run steel, yes it may be a little heavier but its got better longevity and less deflection due to it's strength. The only advantage aluminum has over the steel is the lighter weight which brings the overall valve train weight down making it easier to rev. But unless your running a high rpm titianum valved race engine I wouldn't worry about it.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
I agree with you Mike.
I think where folks get in trouble is using aluminum rocks in their Street/Strip motor that has a bit of lift and some spring pressure as a street car and legging it.
I think we would both agree that aluminums fatigue life is less than steel and if your putting a lot of stress on them, bingo, failure.
As far as the PRWs go, give me some specifics why you don't like them.
I'll tell you why I got them.
First they were recommended by an acquaintance that has been a very successful engine builder for 30+ years. But he may have a deal with them who knows.
My build is low rev, low comp ratio. And I live in LA where you spend a lot of time idling in traffic so as an experiment I'm going all roller keeping friction as low as possible for cooling.
I like that they are steel and my initial look at them was good.
I will be going over them real well and as I said before, will stick some ARP adjusters in there.
I'm trying to get around the "made over there" hysteria because some companies are making good products (Scat) with Asia in the production loop.
I think where folks get in trouble is using aluminum rocks in their Street/Strip motor that has a bit of lift and some spring pressure as a street car and legging it.
I think we would both agree that aluminums fatigue life is less than steel and if your putting a lot of stress on them, bingo, failure.
As far as the PRWs go, give me some specifics why you don't like them.
I'll tell you why I got them.
First they were recommended by an acquaintance that has been a very successful engine builder for 30+ years. But he may have a deal with them who knows.
My build is low rev, low comp ratio. And I live in LA where you spend a lot of time idling in traffic so as an experiment I'm going all roller keeping friction as low as possible for cooling.
I like that they are steel and my initial look at them was good.
I will be going over them real well and as I said before, will stick some ARP adjusters in there.
I'm trying to get around the "made over there" hysteria because some companies are making good products (Scat) with Asia in the production loop.