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well, I'm looking for a better heads and something I have already looked on the carburetor and distributor, who advise, if I put my distributor electronic ignition kit would serve?
The oil pump drive should not come out through the top when you take out the distributor. It should only come out of the bottom when you remove the oil pump. There is a spring type washer that should be on the drive shaft too prevent this from happening, you are missing that piece. Sorry I can't post a picture, maybe someone else can do that. maybe you can see this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-Shaft-Ford-272-292-312-341-368-Y-Block-Mercury-Drive-Driveshaft-New-/221150745401?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337d9c9339&vxp=mtr
Can't view the video, it says its private and I don't have a youtube account..
The ARP rod is much stronger. Strangely, they have been packaging the ARP rod with the retaining washer installed on the wrong end of the rod. You can slip it off and put it on the other end. It should fit well within the distributor and oil pump. If it does not fit well, try reversing it.
The ARP rod is much stronger. Strangely, they have been packaging the ARP rod with the retaining washer installed on the wrong end of the rod. You can slip it off and put it on the other end. It should fit well within the distributor and oil pump. If it does not fit well, try reversing it.
A little off topic: I had an oil pump on a 302 lock up and stock rod twisted like a pretzel but it didn't break . I just bought a replacement one for the 292 I'm building and it was assembled wrong and I had to turn the washer around and put it on the other end so it not just ARP unless they all come from the same supplier.
I had to turn the washer around and put it on the other end so it not just ARP unless they all come from the same supplier.
I doubt it. The ARP is much more robust then a stock replacement, only the ends are hex. And ARP is etched into the round 'body'.
Always put the beveled or 'pointed end' toward the distributor with the clip on the opposite end (bottom). The pointed end helps guide the rod into the bottom of the distributor.
I doubt it. The ARP is much more robust the a stack replacement, only the ends are hex. And ARP is etched into the round 'body'.
Always put the beveled or 'pointed end' toward the distributor with the clip on the opposite end (bottom). The pointed end helps guide the rod into the bottom of the distributor.
I think the clip goes on the top/pointed end, if it was on the bottom it would pull from the pump.
OK, I see the difference, I've never used the ARP. Its strange that both ARP and other suppliers all get it backwards
No I can not see the video either
Others have had this problem and went back to there video and
changed something than everyone could see it.
There must be a way to make it public as it said it was a private video.
I think the clip goes on the top/pointed end, if it was on the bottom it would pull from the pump.
Nope, the clip goes on the bottom to prevent the rod from coming out when the distributor is pulled.
Capelo, I just noticed in your first picture of the engine, your dipstick is in the incorrect position. It needs to be on the side of the block so it goes into the pan sump. The position it is in now is for a car pan with a front sump.