2000 Excursion 7.3 Remove and Replace No Start Condition
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2000 Excursion 7.3 Remove and Replace No Start Condition
Working on a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 that I am currently experiencing a no start condition with.
I had driven the truck for about 1,000 miles with an annoying SES light for glow plug #6. I went to replace the glow plug but it got stuck in the head. I removed the head and pulled out the plug. When I removed the head to my horror one piston was missing a chunck out of it. The truck had no blow by and ran great (got good mileage too!).
I pulled the motor replaced the one bad piston and the oil pan. Then I put the motor back and it will crank but not start.
I can get the truck to run on brake clean but nothing else. It seems like no fuel is being sent to the injectors.
As of now I get no codes except for p0605 internal ROM fault.
My ICP climbs to 18,000 psi and the IPR duty cycle goes to 46%.
Seems to have everything connected right...
I had driven the truck for about 1,000 miles with an annoying SES light for glow plug #6. I went to replace the glow plug but it got stuck in the head. I removed the head and pulled out the plug. When I removed the head to my horror one piston was missing a chunck out of it. The truck had no blow by and ran great (got good mileage too!).
I pulled the motor replaced the one bad piston and the oil pan. Then I put the motor back and it will crank but not start.
I can get the truck to run on brake clean but nothing else. It seems like no fuel is being sent to the injectors.
As of now I get no codes except for p0605 internal ROM fault.
My ICP climbs to 18,000 psi and the IPR duty cycle goes to 46%.
Seems to have everything connected right...
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
It can take quite some time to get the oil galleys all primed back up...
Keep a battery charger handy...
Crank for no more than 30 seconds at a time and let it cool off before the next try. Give it a good 10-15min between cranking.
You can sometimes speed up the process by filling the hpop reservoir but it shouldnt be necessary if the lpop is working.
Keep a battery charger handy...
Crank for no more than 30 seconds at a time and let it cool off before the next try. Give it a good 10-15min between cranking.
You can sometimes speed up the process by filling the hpop reservoir but it shouldnt be necessary if the lpop is working.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
It can take quite some time to get the oil galleys all primed back up...
Keep a battery charger handy...
Crank for no more than 30 seconds at a time and let it cool off before the next try. Give it a good 10-15min between cranking.
You can sometimes speed up the process by filling the hpop reservoir but it shouldnt be necessary if the lpop is working.
Keep a battery charger handy...
Crank for no more than 30 seconds at a time and let it cool off before the next try. Give it a good 10-15min between cranking.
You can sometimes speed up the process by filling the hpop reservoir but it shouldnt be necessary if the lpop is working.
First thing I'd do is open fuel bowl drain and turn on the key to see if pump is working.
Pump will time out after ~30secs if the engine doesn't start. 
The link S&B posted should get ya there as well.
Oh, and unless you like pistons missing chunks (or WORSE) - STOP using brake clean to make your engine run!!!
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