I hate to put you into a deep workload. But I would remove the brake caliper
and pads. Check all the rub points so that you know all the pins and contact
points are greased. Try and turn the wheel. If you still get squeak the next thing
is to start to remove the locking hub and turn again. The sound is metal on metal
to my ears. When you get the hub off you may find something stuck in there or
that the backing plate is rubbing.

Before you get into this try this with the wheel off. Get a long screwdriver
at least a foot. 18" would be ideal while you turn the hub/rotor place the tip
of the screwdriver on the rear side of the unit-bearing right next to the place
where the ABS sensor goes in and place your ear on the handle listen. Then move it around to other places and compare the sounds you get. As you get closer to the
source you will hear it more. This is basically a poor-mans stethoscope. You can
also remove the ABS sensor and shine a light in the hole and see if there is
grease or rust in there. Nest place to check would be where the drive shaft goes
into the back side if you can keep from getting bumped by the U-joint.

To do the rear main seal you need a special tool to set the seal. Are you sure that
the oil is not coming from up top? The IPR if leaking will come right down that way
and make you think rear main seal when it just the IPR and you can check that with a
flashlight and a mirror. Go from the driver side just between the turbo and the degas
bottle on the back side of the turbo you will find the IPR. It may or may not have a heat
shield on it. See if you can find evidence of oil leaking from there. This may save you some
time and money.

On the power issue. You still have the EGR system right? Or did you say your going to clean the valve.
My brian is tired. Anyway.... I bet the turbo needs to be cleaned. I would also check the EBP tube
to see if it crapped up with soot. Along with that I would check the MAP nipple and hose. Use care that
silly nipple is plastic. We know what happens to plastic in the engine compartment.

How is the power on the FICM ? And with the voltage issues I would do voltage drop testing on the
cables. Here is a good video on how to do that wit ha digital volt meter or DMM or DVOM


So check a few of the ideas you have gotten here on FTE and post back.

Sean

 

Good stuff, thanks Sean! Yes, I do still have the EGR, though I may delete it if I dive into this. I also have an actual stethoscope (used to be in emergency medicine) would that be better? I don't monitor the ficm all the time, but when I do its a solid 48-48.5. Good tip on the IPR, I'll check that!

 

You need a mechanics stethoscope. It has a long rod so that you can better
pinpoint a location and the smaller point lets you place it on small points.
You would be surprised at the sounds that a bearing will make. Try this.
Place the tip of the screwdriver on the back side of the alternator near that plastic
cap on the back center and put your ear on the end. BWT with the engine running.
You should hear a sort of smooth growling from the bearing and this is normal.
You soon learn to tell what is good and what is not.

Good to hear on the FICM voltage. Have you checked it at cold startup?

Sean

 

The P1000 is a systems readiness code and will show up every time codes are cleared. It will disappear after a few drive cycles if everything is ok

I had the p1832 code. Found some pin point Trouble shooting for it and got it fixed. For me it was the solenoid on the passenger side fender. IIRC toward the end of the TS it talked about testing the hub assembly. Maby your squeak and this code are related? If this code comes back Shoot me a PM and ill send you the TS.

 

Ok, will do! Sean, voltages are fine at cold start also. Never seen it drop below 47.5.

 

is this the one that overheat


Lots of rear main leaks from being simply to Full of oil

 

Yeah, this is the one that overheated. Don't think its too full of oil, but I'll check.

 

Dave you have a 50/50 Shot at to full of Oil

When I got my 6.0L I think I was putting 15qt oil in

I had Bed pLATE AND Rear Main Seeps I cut back to 13.5qt and is Gone

I wouldn't go ripen the engine out just yet over it LOL How Much does it leak??

I know its the Point it leaks at All Huh Im with Ya

Edit I reread first post so it leaks Bad well

 

Dave I got Mine 03 Glow Plug Harness Off on that side without removal of the Heater/A/C cover there

You can get it

if your really careful you can reuse the Glow Plug harness and just change Orings


Dave I saw a Guy that Got the HEADS out Yes that's Right THE HEADS Off on the Passenger side without that Evap cover removal

 

Wow! That's crazy! I guess if you're good you can do a lot. Reason I said I didn't think it is to full of oil is cause I don't just dump in 15 quarts... I dump 12, and then keep adding till my stick hits the bottom of the safe line and then check again after a cold soak. It's usually moved about halfway up that safe area after a cold soak. I followed the same pattern this time, but forgot to check after the cold soak again. Parked on a slope last night, but I'll park on flat tonight and see what happens.

As far as how bad the leak is... I park on gravel so it would have to be a lot for me to notice, and I never noticed. The dealer mechanic described it as a bad leak, and when I got home and looked under there myself, there is a ton of oil... So much that its eaten through the mud caked to the bottom of the truck from our dirt roads. And most of that mud is from the last week or so, so its not an old issue... It's definitely fresh. Same thing was noticeable where the PTO comes off the transmission. I don't know how much fluid it would take to do that, but our roads here are sprayed with mach chloride which makes the mud extrememly hard after its dry, so it takes a lot to eat through it. I need to figure out how to get this truck up on something where I can get at the underside with a pressure sprayer...