So I got a recovery strap rated for 7500lbs(22,500lbs break)

The same store did not have any d-rings. So I am looking here

My plan if I ever need it is to loop one end of the strap around whatever I am pulling and through the strap's loop. The other end would go through the d-ring and either the front hooks or the tow hitch.

Does that sound right? How thick to get the d-ring 3/4? 7/8? 1/2? Am I better off getting 2 d-rings in case the hooks on the cars are too narrow to pull the strap through?

I will likely never need it but I like being prepared. I just need good enough to help myself or someone else 1-2 times in the next few years.

 

not sure i would use one of their d rings, whenever i hear that brand name talked about it usually involves the letter H to replace an T in their name...i went to my local fastenal and got a pretty big d ring, forget what its rated for, 7 tons i think. I also found one rated for 20 tons in the woods that i have as well. along with a 2x30 and 3x30 tow strap

 

I've got two 2x15 straps and two 3x30 straps... I bought my D-ring from my local Tractor Supply.

something like this...

 

I have a lot of smittybuilt stuff. All of it, including d rings, have been great.

I will admit, they often take a product that someone else made, cut the R&D cost, produce it a little cheaper and sell it for a lot less. Often people expect these discounted products to preform as well as other items on the market and if they don't people call BS. You get what you pay for. Would I hang 30,000lbs from my smittybuilt recovery strap? Never. But I keep a couple with me at all times along with a smaller 20,000lb strap for lighter duty work like moving a Chevy from a roadway. (See attached picture). The only thing of theirs I wouldn't buy is a winch. Other than that, most stuff is fine. Keep in mind, it is cheaper so things like paint may chip and rust sooner than the more expensive products.

More important I think is being smart about ofroading. My friend recently got a call from some friends while I was on duty. These guys had taken stock 2wd vehicles Oriya's and gotten stuck. With no off road recovery equipment or supplies, and well outside cell range they hitch hiked 30 miles to a small town where they were able to call for help.

They could have easily gotten in a lot more trouble than they did.

Inspection of the strap should be routine. Frays severely reduce is strength.

I got off on a little bit of a tangent sorry. But I've only seen 2 sizes. One is about the size of your front tow hooks. That's the one you want.

 

Also yes get 2 drings. You want to have them if you need them. For example the tow hooks on proper trucks (fords) are closed loops. To recover another Ford you would need two drings one on each tow hook. Also you would be surprised what rolls out of the factory with tow hooks. All European vehicles have one front and one rear somewhere, in bmws case it screws into the bumper.

 

Ther is a difference in hooks, most cars com ecuiped with tie down hooks, this is not ment to be used as a tow hook, and also use rated equipment with rating stamped on it

 

My 2001 A4 had a front hook behind a clip-on bumper panel. Used it once after getting stuck with snow up to the axles. The tractor only had to pull me a few feet and all was well. Probably not meant to tow but good enough for that little pull out of trouble.

 

That's actually exactly what that is meant for. What ever they have for DOT across the Atlantic makes it a requirement to have a tow point on the front and back for tow truck operators to use.

 

I was surprised when I saw what is called a "D-Ring". I figured D-Rings are what you find on a trailer or such to tie something down. In my line of work (45 years in steel fab/erection) they are called shackles. We have some that are so big, you need a crane to lift them. Anyway, I did a search for D-ring on Grainger, and came up with tie down rings. I searched shackle, and came up with your D-Ring.

 

I've seen them referred to as a shackle, clevis, D-ring, D-clevis, etc. I usually call mine a shackle, but I went along the "D-ring" term in this thread to avoid confusion.

 

A D-ring is a good thing to have, but you can also do a dog bone when dealing with closed tow rings. You loop the end of the strap through/around whatever you're hooking it to, and then pull a few inches of the strap through its own eyelet and stick a crescent wrench, hammer handle, or whatever through it. Its a loop through a loop affair and won't cinch or damage the strap. Eliminates having to thread the length of the strap through itself and makes your buddies think you're really smart!

 

I wish I had read that before I went to the industrial tool shop. Spent a good while trying to explain what I was looking for. Finally found a picture on the web from my phone and the guy said... ah! you want shackles.

 

Good trick assuming you have tools that are made really solid. Mine came in a plastic box from sears and I doubt that they would hold up when towing anything bigger than a smart. Maybe the tire tools that came with the F250 would hold.

I bought two 3/4" unrated shackles for 5$ each. The rated ones were 20$ so I'll just tell everyone to stand far away in the unlikely event that I actually have to use my recovery kit.

There's that annoying tree in my front lawn I really want to rip out and try my hooks and 4x4 low. Too bad the wife likes the tree.

 

The shackle I bought from Tractor Supply about 4 years ago, was about 30-35 bucks I think... I've beat on that thing pretty good, and it usually gets a good workout when I go to the dunes every summer.