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So it is finally time for a new clutch, slave cylinder, and possibly tranny overhaul in my '95 f150. It has the 4.9l engine and the mazda 5 speed. This truck has a 4 inch suspension lift, and 33" tires. I was wanting to put in a heavy duty clutch while I was already going to all of this other trouble, but I'm not sure what options I have.. O'reilly's asks if its a 10" or 11" clutch, and I'm not sure without physically measuring the clutch disk. I read somewhere that EFI 4.9l flywheels were drilled for both 10 and 11 inch disks, but I am skeptical. If anyone could shed some light on the subject, I would be forever greatful.
The best in my opinion is to tear it down & then you will know what you have & can then check options for a heavier clutch if available. I haven't seen many clutch issues as far as disc & pressure plates. It is slave & Master cylinders that are the real clutch issues on these trucks. So buying top line of those parts is where the real worry should be. Again in my opinion.
Craig
I have to order whichever clutch I end up using, and I dont want my truck to be torn apart for a week while I wait for a clutch to show up, because I ordered the wrong one the first time. I already know about the hydraulic issues with these trucks, I am very familiar with them. I just want to throw in the heaviest clutch I can while I am in there, because my truck does get used for pulling fairly heavy trailers and off roading.
I have to order whichever clutch I end up using, and I dont want my truck to be torn apart for a week while I wait for a clutch to show up, because I ordered the wrong one the first time. I already know about the hydraulic issues with these trucks, I am very familiar with them. I just want to throw in the heaviest clutch I can while I am in there, because my truck does get used for pulling fairly heavy trailers and off roading.
It just a guess what you have until you get in there. If you know Fords it is a crap shoot. It may be drilled for an 11" & maybe it isn't. To do a job right sometimes takes a little longer. I know we live in a world of wanting & in many cases getting everything NOW. But sometime the real world appears as NOW for you & you will have to slow down & investigate what you have then order what you want.
My current clutch is not slipping, but my throwout bearing is squealing (I hope). I am going to replace the clutch while I am in there. I may have to just order both, and return the one I don't need. I would most likely have my flywheel resurfaced anyways. If its not the throwout bearing squealing, then it is a bearing on the mainshaft of the trans, and in that case the truck is going to be out of service for quite some time.
If you take the inspection cover off, you may be able to see if the flywheel is drilled for both sizes. You might even be able to get a measurement, but I'm pretty sure there would be some degree of guessing. I would ASSume both flywheels are the same OD.
No need to be a smart-***.. I simply asked what size clutch would be found in my truck, and if there were any heavy duty options while I was there..
Not meaning to be a smart ***. Your just asking a question that nobody can answer with out seeing what is in there. As stated you may have a bad flywheel or on so badly glazed with hard spots that they can't be ground out. You are planning on having the Flywheel trued up aren't you???
If not, your wasting your time even putting a new clutch in. What if front collar on the trans is broken or wore out. causing your T/O issue.
I'm a former mechanic & I have seen all that. Yet people wanted me to tell them what exactly is wrong & how much, as your asking on this post. UNTIL YOU TEAR IT DOWN YOU WON"T KNOW FOR SURE ANYTHING.
Not meaning to be a smart ***. Your just asking a question that nobody can answer with out seeing what is in there. As stated you may have a bad flywheel or on so badly glazed with hard spots that they can't be ground out. You are planning on having the Flywheel trued up aren't you???
If not, your wasting your time even putting a new clutch in. What if front collar on the trans is broken or wore out. causing your T/O issue.
I'm a former mechanic & I have seen all that. Yet people wanted me to tell them what exactly is wrong & how much, as your asking on this post. UNTIL YOU TEAR IT DOWN YOU WON"T KNOW FOR SURE ANYTHING.
So by the second sentence in the above post, you are basically telling me that a clutch has never gone bad in one of these trucks, and nobody has ever replaced one.... All I want to know is what size of clutch came in this truck from the factory, and if there is a heavy duty option... Please read the above posts to answer your other questions..
The info about the <8500 or >8500 weight tells me something.. thank you.
So by the second sentence in the above post, you are basically telling me that a clutch has never gone bad in one of these trucks, and nobody has ever replaced one.... All I want to know is what size of clutch came in this truck from the factory, and if there is a heavy duty option... Please read the above posts to answer your other questions..
The info about the <8500 or >8500 weight tells me something.. thank you.
As a former Factory Trained Ford Tech, Ford as others have done weird things. Good example when buying front axle seals & bearings you need the Serial number on Fords. Because of change overs in parts mid year. So exactly there is no way to BE SURE WHAT YOU HAVE. Ford was famous for mid run change overs of parts. Unless you have a factory parts book for your year & even then it can still be a guess. When I worked for Ford in the late 80s I went to the parts counter one day to get a part I had in hand. The parts guys went to get it & came back & started question the year of truck I was working on. I handed them the work order they said no way. Then the came out on the floor & started checking serial numbers of the vehicle. It was a change over to a new part that they didn't have because updates weren't out. It took parts a week to get the right part.
PM Number Dummy maybe he can tell you exactly what you SHOULD have.
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