Has anyone had success or some help by installing a front steering shock.

Ford does offer the kit for a 2 wheel drive.

I have slight wandering issues.

The kit is bolt on, and not too expensive....

 

In general the front steering shock is for bump steer. One the biggest improvements on my Excursion was adding zerk fittings to the lower ball joints then greasing them. I just drilled and tapped the factory ball joints and they are still good at 130k miles.

 

Grease needle in the BJ boots.........?

ANY help on the lubing issue?

is it the "dry" ball joint that causes the wandering?

 

Steering shock is a band aid for wander and grease won't help either.

 

EX,

You are probably correct.............

What seems to be the sure fix?

 

Tightening the steering box on my 4WD '05 removed 80% of my wandering. Replacing soft stock rear leaf springs may also help. Replace your shocks if your still running the originals.

A rebuilt steering box from Red Head seems to be the ticket; haven't gone there myself yet.

 

After about a year, I have my '00 Excursion where it is drivable again. Last fall, I replaced worn tie rod ends and ball joints. Mileage was about 200K. I also put new Goodyear Wranglers on the rear. I did these changes over a few weeks and about that time, I noticed the Excursion became very difficult to keep on the road.

2000 Excursion, RWD, 6.8 V-10 purchased new. Current mileage about 220K.

I checked tire pressure because I know tire pressure can cause severe oversteer. That did not fix the problem.

I replaced the factory shocks with Monroe middle of the line shocks. No help.

I installed 4 new Michelin tires. No help.

I added Helwig rear sway bar. No help.

I replaced bushings on front sway bar. No help.

I replaced rear leaf springs with F250 springs. No help.

I added AirLift bags to the front. No help.

I adjusted backlash on steering box. No help.

I replaced steering box. No help.

I bought caster bushings and set caster to maximum. No help. Still wheels would not return to straight after turn. It was still difficult to keep on the road.

I talked to a mechanic friend in Florida. He suggested ball joints needed to be FoMoCo or maybe Moog. That made no sense to me. I have never had a problem with house brands. I checked and the ball joints I had installed were O'Reilly's house brand. They were about half Moog's price ($18 vs $40 or so).

I finally bit the bullet and put new Moogs on it. Bingo. After several thousand dollars, nearly a year and 20,000 miles, it drives like it should.

If you are replacing ball joints, watch out for store brands.

 

My truck has 106,000 on the O.E. joints.....

Recently used hypodermic needle with zerk fitting on it.

I put grease in all of the ball joint boots and I have found quite an improvement.....probably to the point of not being concerned about it.

The joints were so dry...........binding as I was told....freed up now. I towed four hundred miles over the weekend with success. Drove several non tow miles and realized the same improvement.

It will get all new joints eventually. I will only use greaseable joints....Moog or ?

what are you guys thinking about the "binding theory" ? Just curious..........

 

The service manual says the same thing, I didn't believe it but as I said above, I greased my factory ball joints and it improved the wander. I also aligned it and adjusted the steering box.