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This is probly a stupid question, but since I did a power brake swap and it's not acting like I think it should I feel stupid anyways, so I'll ask. When you bleed a system that has power brakes, AFTER bleeding the master cylinder, does the motor need to be running when you bleed the rest of the system? The reason I ask is, I don't seem to get the same flow ( using a rubber hose run into a container to catch the fluid ) as with the manual brake setup when bleeding the brakes. I put a kit from Master Power Brake on, It went pretty smooth, but I am wondering about the pedal ratio now. I measured from the back of the booster/threaded rod to the hole in the pedal and came up with 5 1/4 ". There's no way with the supplied threaded connector/rod setup they send you that you can get this short, so I improvised with a shorter connector to come up with the 5 1/4" I needed. Any advice you can offer would be great. Other than this, I feel they offer a pretty nice kit for an upgrade. MTIA, Al
I put a MPB on my 63 F100 (see my gallery). The rod was way too long, I ended up threading it all the way up, and cutting most of it off. I also re-did the hole to get the correct 4:1 ratio, but the rod angle with the short rod was too severe, so I went back to stock hole. Did you bench bleed first? Also try bleeding diagonally two at a time (I used three people). I plan to do away with the MPB adapter bracket, drill new holes with a backing plate and mount mine directly on firewall. I couldn't use a Clifford intake because the MC is too close to the card. Mine works fine...now onto disc brakes!!
When bleeding brakes, there is no substitute for gravity or vacuum bleeding.
Power brakes can be done with engine off.
I never use the pump and hold method.