(Posted in General by accident too).

Just wanted to drop this in here and see what kind of comments I get.

I've been hanging out here and wondering a few things;

1). I noticed some posts get 100+ views and not a single response. Have they forgotten to check the FAQ section, and everybody is sick of answering the same stupid question?

2). Also, does it bug anybody that 80% of the thread starters NEVER post the problem resolution?

Anyway, I've got an issue with my sons van (1990 E150 shorty w/302 auto). I'm gonna list the steps I've taken, but want to say I'm going to go back to the beginning and start with basics (compression test etc). Here we go.....

1) Son tells me truck is running funky, so I say ok let's do plugs,wires, cap, rotor. (Done) Start truck, starts up runs bad, idles all over, dies. Went back and check wires are done proper, ok.
2) Search FTE and decide to buy OBD I code reader. (Reads 32, 84).
3) Replace EGR. Starts up, runs lousy but no longer dies.
4) Back to FTE. Decide to clean Throttle body and IAC /Swap EVR of 1989 van that runs fine with no codes. (runs lousy).
5) Test drove and get about a block and the darn thing bucks and misses with even light throttle. Parked it.
6) Last night did a nighttime inspection and saw NO random spark flashes.

I have done every component test (I troubleshoot low voltage wiring in my business), and everything is kosher. I promise I WILL post a resolution as soon as I achieve one. VannerDude out.

 

well, here's what i would do...

1) have a buddy check the firing order - sometimes we get disoriented and can't get them right
2) use a stethescope to listen to fuel injectors - do they all fire?
3) post code descriptions along with code numbers for those of us who don't have them memorized
4) check for vacuum leaks - spraying a can of carb cleaner at any point you can think of will be a great test for this - but beware of fire hazards around exhaust and anything hot
5) it sounds like a MAF or MAP kind of problem, with the computer not getting an accurate statement of how much air its getting, thus giving the wrong amount of fuel

 

The only way to remain sane on any similar forum/website such as FTE is to take it all mostly in stride, don't let something (or lack thereof) bug you so much.

Some posts are not well presented, missing vital info like specific code numbers which seems to signify the OP might not be well versed in troubleshooting or diagnosing their particular issue. As much as most of us like to try helping sometimes its nearly impossible to know what to offer.

FAQ's take a bit too long, apparently longer than creating a thread and hoping for a specific answer. For the most part the FTE FAQ's aren't written at an entry level, something easily understood by someone brand new to working on vehicles. Apart from a few things most problems are a combination of others, requiring a starting working knowledge in general. Its tough to describe a fix in great detail to every new problem presented.

As far as following up you'll notice the longer term users will do that, those just joining to solve their problem almost never do. No worries though---the same problem will be presented again sometime soon, one more chance to get or post a fix!

Follow your own good advice and even though it might not be outwardly acknowledged its appreciated and helpful too.

 

Thanks you guys, Pro advice.

JWA, It's more of a peeve really. Just imagining how incredibly quick answers could be found for newbs or Pros if the answers/resolutions were there! Then the search mode would rock.

Josh (can I call ya Josh) sir, you raise a good point about the codes. The code reader manual says they are #32(car app. only). #84(EGR vent vault). I've confused myself by going to OldFuelInjection.com where the #32 is (EVP circuit below minimum voltage of .24 volts), and #84 is (EGR vac. solenoid circuit failure). To further confuse myself, I just turned on the code reader to verify the codes, hit the memory button and #32 comes up with a 'c' designation which means it's in continuous memory and the #84 comes up with the '0' degree symbol, which denotes a KOEO code. I have:
1) tested the voltages at vehicle connectors and they seem within spec.
2) swapped a different EVP (from my '89) with no change.
3) searched 80 pages of posts and used search engine features for info.

I will;
1) re-verify spark wire routing.
2) use my stethoscope on the injectors
3) retest for vacumn leaks
4) POST MY RESULTS, lol.

This system has no MAF as it's an SD system (Speed density =SD).

Thank you guys again for responding, it makes the frustration a little more bearable. It also makes me eager to get out there and try the new road to the final repair.

 

If I read a post and can offer some help, I answer. If I don't have any help I move on to the next one. Sometimes the post is so poorly written I can't understand what they want. Usually I just skip those.

Sometimes there isn't enough information to be able to have a reasonable answer. There is one going on now in a forum further down where I asked three times for information on what engine/trans he has. He finally gave me some of the answer, but he wants me to solve his problem without him telling me what he has. He's out of luck.

What really bugs me is when people answer with a solution that is COMPLETELY wrong. When I post what I know to be the right answer, the previous person often responds that they don't know anything about it, they were just trying to help. How does offering the wrong solution help anyone? If you don't know the answer, don't reply. Is that so hard for most people?

Yes, but what are we going to do about it? That seems to be the way of the 'net.

Did you know that there are two different firing orders for the 302? If you have the wires run for the wrong 302 firing order it will run, just really lousy.

 

Thanks Mark for tuning in. In my field of work I have people wanting solutions over the phone, lol.

I did read here about the two different firing orders, so will be verifying which I have. My son is a social butterfly, so my help was unavailable today.

( I am assuming I will be able to tell a bad injector because it will sound different than the others hopefully).

Updates forthcoming!

 

a good injector will click on and off rapidly, a bad or disconnected injector will not click. it'll be obvious if one is bad, but i guess i should have been more clear when i first suggested it.

 

Does that year 302 have the same style Throttle position sensor as the 92/93? your symptoms kind of present themselves in a similar way as a bad TPS.

 

I have tested the spark plug wiring and have re-confirmed firing order and routing. Listened to injectors and all seem to be clicking at close to same rates. I went against my own rules and bought another part, the EGR position sensor that sits on top. Drove it around a bit, seemed to idle slightly better (but not good). When you slow down, hit brakes, engine clunks/clatters and bucks a bit. (Knock?). Still getting code #84 which in the code reader manual says EGR vent fault. Read #33 which says EGR valve fault/not closing properly. I'm lost.
Edit; Forgot to add I sprayed half a can of brake cleaner and got no changes of idle speed.

 

Just wanted to update. (Yes the nightmare continues).

I finally gave up and took the van to a mechanic. He has had it a week and can't find anything yet. But it still runs like crap. The longer he has it the more nervous I get. I don't want to invest a small fortune to find out it has 7 bad cylinders, lol.

I will update the solution !!

 

Looking forward to updates---this does seem something to be concerned about, that fear of the checkbook getting mugged.

Hope its nothing too expensive to get right.

 

Well, here's my update, lol. Truck still had issues after mechanic returned it. He claimed the timing was out 10 degrees. I have no idea how the timing got wacked but he got it running. I hesitated to update because there is no real info to share but.......

 

Have you checked the grounds to from engine to body? My 89 5.0 Mustang went all squirrelly on me a few years ago and turned out to be the ground at the firewall was off. The engine was doing everything except run smooth.

Also is the timing plug in place?

 

VannerDude,

Timing chain is worn out? or nylon timing gear??? had a 80's 318 Plymouth van do this to me, I thought it was posessed!!

 

Hi VannerDude,

I had an '86 302 Mustang that sounds like the same problems. It was a SD system. The TFI module was failing causing all sorts of erratic running.

I have NO idea if that is applicable to your situation but thought is might be worth a look?
jim