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Proof old men aint crazy-question?

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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 05:44 AM
  #1  
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Proof old men aint crazy-question?

I was at Napa when a guy my age came in for a complete tune up kit for a 2003 Chev. 2500 pickup. When asked what liter, they guy said "235" six?? That caught my attention. So It ended up everybody out side to his truck, and sure
enough, a 235 6 banger. In short the owner 'like me' fed up with all that crap.
Ole stovebolt runs like a kitten. Like me he's a machinist and what a pro job this guy did. In my case I was going for a 337 Lincoln, but I am going for one of my
sweet running "430"s. Mel 383 & 430s have an exact FE belhousing, and so far
I have machined an adaptor plate for my AOD with 460 starter. I have machined
a 460 flex plate to the 430 crank. Maybe someone can direct me about the
AOD having wires in it. For what I read people get around that somehow.
This is for a 97 F350 4x4 (is manual not push button). I really need to keep the
tranny cause of cable shift/ electric speedometer and whatever. Theres a guy on the formun with this tranny in a 56 with a Y block so It can be done thanks
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:54 AM
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Your F350 has an E4OD transmission. It's 100% electronic controlled unlike the mechanical AOD you are referring to. You will need a stand alone transmission controller to run that E4OD.

Something like this is what you will need: Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Control System

This will control Ford AOD-E (electronic version of the mechanical AOD), 4R70W and E4OD transmissions.

Pretty much a moot point if you are swapping in an AOD for this frankenstein project you have come up with. As much as I would love to have a MEL under the hood of a project vehicle, this F350 would not be my choice.

Something along this line is my train of thought (minus the hood):
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #3  
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Another one of those machinist guys!

I have been itching to cut out a trans adapter plate on my plasma cnc table!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Your F350 has an E4OD transmission. It's 100% electronic controlled unlike the mechanical AOD you are referring to. You will need a stand alone transmission controller to run that E4OD.

Something like this is what you will need: Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Control System

This will control Ford AOD-E (electronic version of the mechanical AOD), 4R70W and E4OD transmissions.

Pretty much a moot point if you are swapping in an AOD for this frankenstein project you have come up with. As much as I would love to have a MEL under the hood of a project vehicle, this F350 would not be my choice.

Something along this line is my train of thought (minus the hood):

Thank you very much thats what I am looking for. Really not trying to frankinstien it but, Its a good one owner truck and its weak point is the 460 and its really breaking the bank. Myself I have a 58 Mercury, 59 Continental both with 430s I have had since high school (1961) both instantly start, both run like a watch and its great grandson cant run like that? And this suppose to be progress? This is writtin in cement, take any new (anything) and it turns over 10 times before running. Then howcome my flathead "is running" before I release the starter button? How does a flathead plow snow in a blizzard straight with no issues like three days? Last blizzard this "F350 "460" came home from plowing on the hook three times" Again thanks Sam
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:30 AM
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I can't give you an answer but I can shake your hand and say "thank you"! I love this stuff and am envious of your abilities! Good luck sir!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by big job
This is writtin in cement, take any new (anything) and it turns over 10 times before running. Then howcome my flathead "is running" before I release the starter button?

LOVE this comment and thread, glad I ain't the only one that notices. I was just talking to my buddy the other day, he was running his '62 (67?) Cub Cadet just cutting some grass. He shut it down to talk to me, and when he hit the starter after we were done talking, I didn't even hear the starter motor. Engine rolled over maybe 1/4 turn and was running under it's own power. Why can't a new Briggs or Kohler engine do that?

And Dad's '48 John Deere Model A (now sold ) would turn over MAYBE 2 times when cold, especially if you had the decompression ***** open... but if it was warm, one quick step on the starter pedal would get that big 2 cylinder going. Damn I miss that sound.

'48 Allis Chalmers WD, same thing... just a few cranks. Hell she'll roll on over and fire easy just using the hand crank if you know how she likes it.

Meanwhile, the McCulloch generator with no-name Chinese engine that he picked up brand new, now with ~10 hours on it, won't start for s***. Ever since initial break-in, it ain't ever started again. Cleaned carb, checked for spark, only way to get it to fire is drip gas into the cylinder... and it'll only run til that's burned off.

Yeah old men ain't crazy. I've thought about taking an OBS truck and going all-mechanical on it. It'd be sweet... non-computerized gas or diesel engine, manual trans, manual transfer case, only electronic thing in it would be the radio. With a snorkel and a few other things, I could drive thru whatever (non-salt) water I want, change fluids, and call it good.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Huh?

Originally Posted by dixie460

(clipped for brevity)

Meanwhile, the McCulloch generator with no-name Chinese engine that he picked up brand new, now with ~10 hours on it, won't start for s***. Ever since initial break-in, it ain't ever started again. Cleaned carb, checked for spark, only way to get it to fire is drip gas into the cylinder... and it'll only run til that's burned off.
Well, sounds like it has spark and compression so it's a fuel delivery problem. From experience with generators in general, either there's crud in the tank, blocking the outlet or the interior of the cheap Chinese fuel line has been ate up by this cr@p we call gasoline, plugging the inlet to the carb. Two most common issues I've run across.

Any old d00d with skills would have this genset running in <30 minutes.

Just sayin', since I'm one of those old graybeard d00ds myself.

Ray
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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I'm 49 which makes me maybe a little more technology-tolerant than an "old dude" but still old enough to really remember the old-school stuff. I have mixed feelings about old vs. new technology.

I updated my old-school '71 Bronco with an aftermarked electronic ignition (DUI using GM HEI components) and I can't see ever going back to points and condensor. But I also updated it with EFI (Holley Pro-Jection) and later "downdated" it back to the original 2 bbl Motorcraft carb.

Going back to the carb on my Bronco reminded me of "the dance." Anyone can start any all-electronic vehicle. You get in, turn the key and wait for it to start. It may not start immediately, but there's no trick to getting it to start.

But older vehicles are like a dance partner. To get one of them started, first you need to know how to dance. There's a lot more to it than just turning the key. You need to set the choke, maybe blip the accelerator pump to get it primed. Maybe hold the throttle open to clear a flood. And that brings up the second thing. In order to start an old-tech vehicle quickly, it's not enough that you know how to dance, you need to be experienced dancing with your partner.

I learned to drive in a 1929 Model A (see "my toys" in my signature). When I first rebuilt it I didn't have the starter working, so I hand cranked it. Boy, when you only get one compression stroke out of each pull, you learn how to dance with that partner! I got to where I could always get it to start on the 3rd pull. I couldn't do any better than that, but that was good enough. And then when I did get the starter working I found the same dance let me get it going on the 3rd compression stroke every time too.

Every carbureted engine I've had has had it's own dance steps. And learning them is a fun part of owning older vehicles. To be perfectly honest, my Bronco started a lot better with the EFI than it does with a carb. But I like the carb, I know how she dances, and I'm sticking with her.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by big job
This is writtin in cement, take any new (anything) and it turns over 10 times before running. Then howcome my flathead "is running" before I release the starter button?
All newer computer controlled vehicles have cam and crank angle sensors. In order to run the sensors must correlate. The PCM must know when #1 cylinder is at TDC so that it fires the fuel injectors and the coils at the correct time. It generally takes a few revolutions in order for the PCM to "see" where everything is in relation to #1 cylinder. No more mechanical parts to wear out, require adjustment, or plain fail.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by blkF250HD
All newer computer controlled vehicles have cam and crank angle sensors. In order to run the sensors must correlate. The PCM must know when #1 cylinder is at TDC so that it fires the fuel injectors and the coils at the correct time. It generally takes a few revolutions in order for the PCM to "see" where everything is in relation to #1 cylinder. No more mechanical parts to wear out, require adjustment, or plain fail.
Then why, more often then not, do they fail before a mechanical engine?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #11  
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Nothing Special, I know that dance and it IS satisfying to get to know your machine and listen to her come to life after perfecting this dance. This is part of what gives older machinery that character that some newer stuff just don't have. Not ALL the new stuff is character-less... all of my Fords have personalities, but like you said it's less involved and anybody could start them.

OP, why not just go to a C6? It's basically your current E4OD without computer controls or overdrive. Or is this gonna be a driver where gas mileage is important?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by parkerparkerm
Then why, more often then not, do they fail before a mechanical engine?
Well... anytime you increase the complexity of something (in this case by adding sensors, actuators, processors, etc) you increase the number of potential failure points. But also, for example replacing points and condenser with an ignition box increases the amount of time the ign. system can go without maintenance, so it's a trade-off.

Newer engines fail more because the gov't keeps pushing emission standards higher and this forces manufacturers to try new, unproven technologies like diesel exhaust filters. These of course will have bugs that need worked out, just like the older gasoline engines with cats that fall apart and plug up the exhaust.

For simplicity's sake though, I do like old school stuff minus the old smog stuff like air pumps and heat risers.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by blkF250HD
No more mechanical parts to wear out, require adjustment, or plain fail.
This is what I was replying to specifically.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #14  
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The majority of electrical component failures I see is due to their operating environment. With the exception of Nissans, most cam and crank sensors are fairly reliable. I replace more ignition coils than anything. Most reside on or recessed in the valve cover, and the heat kills them over time. Sure, fuel injectors go bad or get clogged up, but I've replaced very few of those too. It's typically stuff that plagues non-computerized engines that I repair the most: Intake gaskets, water pumps, various oil seals and gaskets, etc. To call one technology better than the other is pointless, it all depends on what you're familiar with.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by dixie460
LOVE this comment and thread, glad I ain't the only one that notices. I was just talking to my buddy the other day, he was running his '62 (67?) Cub Cadet just cutting some grass. He shut it down to talk to me, and when he hit the starter after we were done talking, I didn't even hear the starter motor. Engine rolled over maybe 1/4 turn and was running under it's own power. Why can't a new Briggs or Kohler engine do that?

And Dad's '48 John Deere Model A (now sold ) would turn over MAYBE 2 times when cold, especially if you had the decompression ***** open... but if it was warm, one quick step on the starter pedal would get that big 2 cylinder going. Damn I miss that sound.

'48 Allis Chalmers WD, same thing... just a few cranks. Hell she'll roll on over and fire easy just using the hand crank if you know how she likes it.

Meanwhile, the McCulloch generator with no-name Chinese engine that he picked up brand new, now with ~10 hours on it, won't start for s***. Ever since initial break-in, it ain't ever started again. Cleaned carb, checked for spark, only way to get it to fire is drip gas into the cylinder... and it'll only run til that's but


Yeah old men ain't crazy. I've thought about taking an OBS truck and going all-mechanical on it. It'd be sweet... non-computerized gas or diesel engine, manual trans, manual transfer case, only electronic thing in it would be the radio. With a snorkel and a few other things, I could drive thru whatever (non-salt) water I want, change fluids, and call it good.
yayyy another allis guy, my 1950 starts pretyy easy but is pretty finicky to get started. Doesnt help that cylinder two burns oil. I dont know bout that john deere two popper though
 
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