Let me start with - if I EVER find the mechanic that built my motor I will kick him in the nutz as hard as I can repeatedly until his unborn grand children feel it!!!

So I start taking things apart this morning to change my #3 injector and am smoking through it until I get to the oil rail hold down bolts. It appears that the son of a ***** used an impact to tighten them down to well beyound 96in/lbs!! Out of the seven that I have gotten out, 2 are pretty well rounded off and the last one is my problem.

This is an early '03 so it has the log style rails and of course the one that won't come out is the very back one on the top. I have spent the last five (yes 5) hours trying everything I can think of that I have known to try in the 25+ years that I have been wrenching on vehicles. I have purchased two different sets of bolt extractors to the tune of $60 and they didn't do shyte and actually made things worse.

Anyone have any suggestions for getting this bolt out with limited room and a virtually round head? I am at my whits end and about the just say **** it and put it back together and live my my over fuelling #3 injector.
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I take you tried vice grips?

Cover everything you can but the bolt and zip a slot across the top of the bolt with a dremel and cut-off wheel.

Then use an impact screwdriver.

Beyond that, zip the head of the bolt off.

Josh

 

You can Tack weld a socket to it

Iv also had luck with a SEARS Bolt extractor the one for turbo works great

JUST the bolt extractor cant bottom out I cant remember the exact bolt configuration at the HPO Rail

Iv been in your shoes Bud Iv spent a better part of a day on a Bolt before LOL

No worries you will get it

 

Just a thought can you weld a big nut on top of it,also i have sometimes turned a bolt as to tighten it just to break it loose then turn it out then back again like you would do with a die putting threads on a bolt going back and forth.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys. Vice grips was one of my first attempts after both extractors failed. I've been holding out from having to weld a nut on this just because of where it's located. I was just thinking that if I had a deep socket sized left hand threaded tube I could easily get it out. I never thought about trying to thread a nut on it and back it out though. I'll look at it tomorrow because I am way to frustrated right now to go back out. Wish me luck!!

 

I like this Idea^^

Welcome to FTE

You joined 2 Years Back??See ya on the Boards

 

I know where your at Bud

Sometimes its best to step back and get a Good Plan of attack going then hit it Fresh

That little sucker will Come Popping back out of there 2morrow

 

Sometimes grinding flats on the bolt will make vise-grips work a little better. I have done this on many #8-32 button head screws the internal hex tends to round off. If that doesn't work then grinding or drilling the head off is probably your best bet. Once the tension is off of the bolt the rest of it will probably just come out by hand as long as it isn't cross threaded.

 

These engines use a lot of 8 and 10mm fasteners all throughout many of its engine related components. HOWEVER, all my 8mm sockets remain unused on pretty much any time I've wrenched on these engines for whatever job I have on hand. This thread is the perfect example of why I always use my 5/16" sockets on all of the 8mm head fasteners.

 

I bet you can just tell what socket you need by Looking at it??

Me I got to Hunt for 5-10 minutes to get the right socket LOL

 

Unfortunately, by the time I thought about trying a 5/16" socket there wasn't enough of the hex left to grab anything.

 

I repped for that one... I'm going to remember it! Thanks for the heads up!

 

funny thing. y'all ever heard of an 8mm bolt actually damaging the socket itself? lol. i've got tat happen to me twice. dang it. i'm always the fellas with the opposite s**t happening to me! LMAO!

 

Just thought I'd update this. The truck is running again!!!

The Snap On socket still didn't work without some help. On the advice of my diesel mechanic I pried up on the oil rail front side in order to slightly stretch the stuck bolt which allowed it to reduce the friction fit on the top of the rail itself. After I did that I still had to do about 10 eighth of turn turns with the vice grips and then used the turbo socket on the air ratchet and was able to turn it out. I purchased a couple of new bolts from Ford to replace that one and another that was pretty rounded and had running Friday night. At least I know that I won't have that problem again!!
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Great job, persistence pays.

Thanks for getting back with the update.


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