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Under valve cover harness help

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Old 08-03-2013, 03:57 PM
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Under valve cover harness help

I had the typical symptoms of the under valve over harness coming looks, I was sure it was the passenger side, so I pulled the cover and the plug looked fine so of course I'm now thinking it must be the right side, can I start the truck with the valve cover off? And the IC boot/pipes off to see if it is working?
Any help would be great thanks
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by crazer42
I had the typical symptoms of the under valve over harness coming looks, I was sure it was the passenger side, so I pulled the cover and the plug looked fine so of course I'm now thinking it must be the right side, can I start the truck with the valve cover off? And the IC boot/pipes off to see if it is working?
Any help would be great thanks
Valve covers yes. IC boots and pipes.....I have never been able to start mine w them off. Put them on loose.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:57 PM
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Be sure to do the 50cent mod
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:19 PM
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Well I replaced the entire harness, and the truck still runs the exact same, it almost dies, if I unplug the right side valve harness it won't run at all so I know it is the left side, now that the harness is ruled out what else could it be?
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JT250
Valve covers yes. IC boots and pipes.....I have never been able to start mine w them off. Put them on loose.
You might have some other issue. You don't need the intercooler to start and idle the truck. It should start just fine without the tubes.

Originally Posted by crazer42
Well I replaced the entire harness, and the truck still runs the exact same, it almost dies, if I unplug the right side valve harness it won't run at all so I know it is the left side, now that the harness is ruled out what else could it be?
Did you ohm the injectors? If so, post the results. There's a chance you have a bad injector solenoid causing the IDM to shut that bank down.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:21 PM
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Could the connectors in the gasket be bad?
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by crazer42
Could the connectors in the gasket be bad?
Yes. You could either have a burnt pin or a broken pin. Testing it out with an ohm meter will save you some money instead of just throwing parts at it.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:37 PM
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ok I will get the OHM results tomorrow, while i was replacing the harness the pins looked fine but the test will tell i guess
 
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:00 AM
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Rather than testing pieces, you want to test the system as a whole before zooming in on the details. Two components can pass an ohm test, but hooking them together may be where the ohm test fails (loose/dirty connection). Pull the 42-pin connector on the driver side and check the continuity across all connections to each injector. P+ = Passenger side common and all odd-numbered injectors are on the Passenger side.


 
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:35 PM
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The wiring harness inside the valve covers for the injecters can lose continuity from all the heat that surrounds the harness.....

Don't forget the injecters only open up from the high pressue oil pumped to them.You may want to check out the high pressure oil pump,regulater & sensor.One thing to remember with this set up is also to keep oil changed,,there is a sensor that picks up the detergents in the oil & will affect the way the engine runs..

I know when my 7.3 had problems with the high pressure oil system I would get alot of white smoke when starting & running rough from the raw fuel..

Worn exhaust valves will cause similar issues,if you have alot of miles or running hours on the engine you may want to do a compression test if you can't figure it out.The exhaust valves aren't heavy duty or high temp design from factory
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:13 PM
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i tested the OHM's and here are my results
glow plugs were .6 through .8 ohms
the injectors from left to right
14.0
17.2
10.0
14.5
so does this mean that i need to replace the gasket? i know that the new harness didn't solve the problem right?
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:52 PM
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Well I replaced the gasket and got much better results on the ohms they were 3.0 put everything together and still the entire passenger side bank is not firing, no heat at all on manifold so I guess I need to test the 42 pin connectors should I try to reset the computer by disconnecting the batteries ??
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:44 PM
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Yes, disconnect the batteries for a bit and clear the codes then try again. If that doesn't work, you need to step back to the 42 pin connector and ohm it again from there.

There was obviously something wrong based on those first readings that appear to be better now. Were they all exactly 3.0, or did they vary any? Exact numbers might be important here.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:25 AM
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ok i stepped back to the 42 pin connector the entire passenger side ohms out perfectly all at 3.3
now the driver side was all out of order they were all above 10.0 so im not confused, the drivers side is the only one firing so how could it be so bad and the left be perfect? any help would be appreciated thanks
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:39 PM
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Bad Injector Driver Module (IDM)?

However, I believe the two "halves" aren't separated by engine bank, so that may not add up.

Do you have the wiring diagrams? Would they help? I have a copy of them on my site. Look in the index here: http://www.springerpop.net/F350

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