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Today I pulled apart all my CAC tubes and cleaned them, cleaned all the air inlet plumbing, and while it was apart, installed my FPR spring. (Off to topic, Fuel pressure at idle went from 40 to 75. That's SWEAT!!) Checked the turbo exhaust outlet pipe and it was dry. Just soot. Re-routed my CCV to under the truck. When I took it on a test drive, the smoke was still there just not as much.
Performed blow-by test. Cold - oil fill tube showed nothing, CCV had a little pressure flowing through it, but couldn't see any smoke. After test drive - oil fill tube showed light smoke coming out, CCV showed the same pressure just had the light smoke. To visually see the smoke had to use flashlight to see the reflection off the vapors.
Couldn't do bubble test bc I apparently over tightened the secondary fuel filter cap last time and could not get if off to day. I basically stripped the nut on top. (I didn't have the right tool either time, GO FIGURE!) So I will have to wait tell next payday and go buy another cap and the socket.
Now what do I do? Is it still turbo? Do I revisit the cooling system again?
Well you Still have to rule out cooling system as well as fuel? what does the coolent in the Degus look and smell like may need to get a sample of coolent in a clear glass and look for diesel or oil. need to get that bubble test ruled out and EGR valve port looked at aswell. Take a look at Riff raff diesel products they have OEM parts for less $ its a online ordering process and it's fast and safe . Were still Brain storming but I think all of the Info given in your thread is going to be the real deal clues
Sorry I haven't got back on this, been hectic around my place.
I drove the truck during daylight and this is what I got. Still have the white smoke at take off, but now have blue smoke visible at the tailpipe. Intermittent at idle, defiantly noticeable at take off. I guess the higher fuel pressure from the blue spring made this more apparent. IIRC, that means something is wrong with the injectors, correct?
As for the blow-by test - cold the oil fill tube and ccv both have air blowing out not smoke, when its hot both oil fill tube and ccv have smoke coming out of them. Possibly rings?
As for the cooling system, I've pulled EGR port and it was dry. The coolant looks good and smells good both at the degas bottle and at the bottom of the radiator (drained off coolant to take of upper rad hose for the blue spring install).
To get my coolant sample, where do I take it from and does the truck need to be hot or cold?
I read somewhere that there is a test to see if exhaust gases in the coolant. Can this be done at the house or do I have to take it to a dealer?
Also read to take an oil sample and let it set to see if you have diesel in the oil. Is this better to take the sample hot or cold?
Thank yall for all the help. Sorry I feel like I'm being annoying, please bear with me.
That's a good sign that the EGR port is dry, I don't think it matters hot or cold , I would do it cold,take sample from degus or pet **** on radiator, as for oil you could dip some out of the upper oil filter and sample it in a clear glass jar and not a common drinking glass as your next drink will be oily in taste. and coolent will not be good for you just my 2cs. Oh there is a test strip for gases I don't now how accurate they are.
How big of a hose did you use to re-route the ccv? Were you careful to avoid installing deadlegs in the hose (they could trap liquids)?
Oil samples are best taken after a bit of highway driving (and up to temperature).
Not everyone analyzes coolant samples. Polaris does.
The check for coolant under the EGR valve is best done w/ the coolant at temperature (this pressurizes the degas bottle) and the truck parked on a downslope.
i just went throught the same thing with mine and both times it was the turbo. everything that you explained was exactly like mine. What i did find out though that some places will put reman turbos on and where they get those reman turbos from is a big deal. If the turbo is rebuilt and not carefully balanced after rebuild what you will have is a turbo that will not last long. 500 bucks for a turbo rebuild is on the low side. Im betting the turbo did not get rebalanced after the rebuild
bismic, I used a 1" heater hose and routed it under the degas bottle over the brake cylinder and down to the frame and ended it hanging down at the frame. Pretty much like a commercial engine does. I was careful to make sure there were no dead legs. I was just doing it like this to see if this was part of the problem. I plan on doing the racor CCV6000 soon.
Is it possible that there is still oil in the IC from the CCV and 4 mths of turbo leaking? It was just a thought that maybe im still picking up oil from the IC. Wondering if it would be worth pulling the IC and having it cleaned.
The reason I chose the turbo rebuild shop is I have heard good things on them and that's all this shop does it rebuild turbos. But the turbos they build are a lot bigger. It was $130 for the kit, $275 for the labor, and $50 for the balance, then tax and freight. They charged me for the balance, who know if they did it. Will a out of balance turbo mess up the oil seals?
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