When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey had a quick question for anyone who might know because I surely don't. I have a 99 F250 w/ the 7.3L. Recently was having problems with my A/C. Checked pressures and they weren't getting down where they needed to be on the low side. Checked clutch and it was toast. Replaced A/C clutch (I work at a Ford dealer so I get parts @ cost lucky me) and the kit came w/ the clutch, pulley, and new magnet. Now the pressure on the low side gets down to about 20-25 psi and stays in that range. The clutch never disengages though. I believe I have the v10 compressor. Is this one of those compressors that makes adjustments based on pressure? Not terribly important I was just wondering. Thanks in advance anyone for help.
Hey had a quick question for anyone who might know because I surely don't. I have a 99 F250 w/ the 7.3L. Recently was having problems with my A/C. Checked pressures and they weren't getting down where they needed to be on the low side. Checked clutch and it was toast. Replaced A/C clutch (I work at a Ford dealer so I get parts @ cost lucky me) and the kit came w/ the clutch, pulley, and new magnet. Now the pressure on the low side gets down to about 20-25 psi and stays in that range. The clutch never disengages though. I believe I have the v10 compressor. Is this one of those compressors that makes adjustments based on pressure? Not terribly important I was just wondering. Thanks in advance anyone for help.
The wife had a bad thermal switch in the evap of her WRX. This made the compressor stay on, ice the evap, then blow hot air. I have heard of a/c problems blowing hot/cold and folks adjust the "air gap"? I don't know if this would make you stay on all the time though.
Does the clutch spin when the a/c is off and the truck is running? Sometimes if you crank down on the clutch nut too tight, it will not allow it to disengage. I think it torques to around 20 ft lbs but I will have to verify that so do not use that.
If it does not spin with switch in off position, the low psi switch is the switch that will turn it off when need be. If its hot, it may run continously and never cycle off. Its not a big deal if unless it freezes up. The low psi switch is using psi to calculate evaporator temp to prevent a freeze up.
I checked the air gap before I torqued down the bolt holding the clutch on. The thing that I don't understand is that the low side pressure stays between 21-25 psi. If the compressor were still running full bore I'd assume it'd go lower and lower until the low pressure cycling switch cut it off. It doesn't.
Also, what is the ambient temperature outside? That could play into effect as well. . Keep in mind that if its the original switch, it could just be a little out of spec. Also, the gauges may be slightly off as well. The best way i know to check to see if one will ever cycle is to turn the fan on low after first driving it to get the cab cooled down and then raise the rpm to around 1000 rpm. If its going to cycle, it should do it then b/c the low fan speed will allow the evaporator to really get cold and lower the psis. That combined with the lack of heat load in the cab b/c you have already driven it and gotten the cab cooled down should allow the compressor to cycle.
Here is the specs for the original ford cycling switch
Close maximum 324 kpa (47 psi)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.