6.0 L Vibration Diagnostic<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I am working on a 2005 Ford F-450 Super Duty Manual Trans 6.0 L<o></o>
We are getting a vibration that just doesn’t seem right. It vibrates worse at different RPMs…and its seems like it is idling a little high. when it is idling its shaking the cab enough to make the head rests wiggle and the mirrors are vibrating so much you can barely see out of them, the degas bottle is bouncing up and down. The engine seems to be running good besides the vibration, throttle response is good, no smoke, we did injector cut out test on each cylinder and ran all the self tests that we can do on this genesis code reader. No check engine lights.<o></o>
A few months ago we had a napa remanufactured starter (they are !@$% and will never use them again) as we were driving down the road the bendix gear fell off inside the transmission bell housing and when we pushed the clutch in the bendix gear got pinched between the clutch fork and the side of transmission which blew a double fist size of a hole in the side of the transmission blowing the cast aluminum chunks everywhere….anyway I got napa to warranty the starter and to have the transmission case replaced, new clutch and flywheel, I was just out all my labor. So put the transmission back in and all is good. Drove for 1 week and the transmission started having problems shifting into 2 and 3. So I had to pull it again and send it back to the transmission shop, they warranted the work and I re installed it, out my labor again….three months later the transmission starts leaking at the case joints…so now I will out my labor again to pull it and take it to them to fix.<o></o>
So now with all this transmission trouble im wondering if theres something wrong with the transmission? Broken input shaft? It still drives and runs fine…but there is the vibration. …since I have to pull the transmission anyway…I was thinking that if there was a way to hook up the starter to engine and start the engine with the transmission out…I could tell if the vibration was the engine or the transmission.<o></o>
What else in the 6.0 could cause major vibration besides physical parts? Like I have seen hydralocked engines that have bent/stretched the piston rods or wrist pins and that creates a vibration.<o></o>
Is there a common vibration problem, that people have seen?<o></o>
What about a crank shaft balancer?<o></o>
let me know what you guys think, i appreciate all the help!

 

you have had the trans out what 3x now and havent noticed the starter doent have to come out as its bolted to the block and not the trans?

 

yea im not very smart, i dont know what i would do with out you guys.

does anyone see any problem with starting the engine without the transmission in place? i would need to support the back of the engine with a jack stand or something to keep it from wobbling to check for the virbations of the motor.

 

You should be fine as along as the motor is supported correctly.

 

what are your guys thoughts on cause of vibration other than mechincal movement of engine parts. i dont think there is anything broken or bent in the engine.

 

I'm new to Diesels but I'm experiencing somewhat of the same issue as yours, except that mine clears up after it warms up. So it's either sticking injectors or the FICM. I hear it's pretty common on 6.0 to have sticking injectors. Does it shudder? That's what mine does, but only on cool mornings. It hasn't been that hot around here. I have heard RevX can sometimes fix sticking injectors. A lot of people swear by it. I was going to try that with mine!

I could be way off, wait for more replies. I'd hate to tell you wrong. I'm hoping mine isn't too bad. I'm still learning.

 

Yeah...i will have to do some more digging...we have been having some eletrical issues too...isnt there something like the FICM that if the power supply is fluctuating to much it cause damage to it or the PCM....i think we are going to go ahead and start up the engine with out the transmission out of it, just to rule that out of the picture

 

yup you can run em with no trans.

 

so we pulled the leaking transmission...and started the engine with the transmission out...and at first it seemed like there was no change in vibration...so we checked the idle speed with our scanner and it was slighty high...so we manualy turned down the idle to spec and the vibration got better...and for the most part when you rev it up the vibrations seem to be much better than before with the transmission in.

so we called the tranmission shop that is going to do the warranty re seal, and told them when they tear down to check everything 100% out since this is the third time out, because we told them about the vibration...and they said that they have seen alot of people running stock ford clutch kits and flywheels and Napa and or after market clutch and flywheel sets, and they all seem to cause excess vibration...they recommend a special lightweight clutch from Six States distribution...we told the transmission shop that the engine was idling a little high...and they said yeah that makes since because the vibrations caused actually effect the engine sensors and pcm try to compensate for the vibration which actually increases rpm...

so im not really sure where to go from here. i think we will try the light weight clutch kit, and buy a ford factory flywheel which is around $350 and the napa one we had was only $150 (we will put it on the self for an emergency backup and or extra ring gear since they arent available by themselves) i just dont like after market stuff like napa, alot of there stuff is just cheap.

 

not tring to be rude but your in over your head.
the truck does not have knock sensors or a way to detect vibration and adjust for anything.

 

From experience I know that having the wrong flex plate will cause a vibration and im sure the same can be said for a flywheel.

 

I would suggest removing the pressure plate and run before buying another clutch kit. I call bs also on the needing a lightweight clutch. Pp is prob 90 or 180 off. The down pipe will support the engine just fine with trans removed. Just don't remove the exhaust from the turbo,,, it will fall then. The mounts are not centered on the block.

 

I think you need to find a new shop to even work on the transmission do to
what is highlighted in RED

They are trying to lighten your wallet. I bet they have no clue as to what the
real problem is or why the transmission is leaking. I only take something
back to the same shop ONCE.

run6.0run,mustang_309 and cheezit know what they are talking about.

Sean

 

of coarse it Idled faster once the trans is out the Load id Off it from the Torq Converter ect.....

Id say when the starter Blewup something got bent most likely the flywheel maybe imput shaft

 

things to do pull the belt and test.
check ficm voltage
isolate exhaust
check for misfires
unbolt motor mounts and trans mount and reset engine back in frame to its normal resting position.
inspect motor mounts for damage and ware
check for sings of impact and frame damage
review title of the truck and varify its not labled as branded.

the list of things to do are not in order you need to sort out what works best for you.
like i said before chasing vibrations is a nightmare and its easy to get in deep quickly.
do you have any nvh/eva tools anyway? very few shops have the stuff to do it.

also what is the freq and order of the vibration. if you cant awnser that question youve already dug your hole