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I am new to the forum and recently came into a 1966 F-250 Camper Special (pics in garage) with a 352 V8 ,automatic transmission, and relatively clean cab. She runs well with a few minor exceptions and as I begin to prioritize and make plans to bring her back to stock I have a few questions and am looking for some advice to help point me in the right direction.
I found the VIN and other info off the door tag:
Warranty number. - F25YR845570
W.B. - 129.
Color. - WM.
Model - F250.
Body - O81.
Trans - G.
Axle - 24.
Max G.V.W. LBS - 07500.
Cert. Net - 172.
H.P. - 4000
R.P.M. - 72.
D.S.O - [blank]
I suppose understanding this info is a good start but I was also wondering how do I determine:
1. what kind of carburator,
2. transmission,
3. rear end
are on this truck? If they are original stock parts where does one find out what was on the truck when it was purchased?
Anyway, any guidance would be most appreciated and, as always, have a great day!
I am new to the forum and recently came into a 1966 F-250 Camper Special (pics in garage) with a 352 V8 , automatic transmission, and relatively clean cab. She runs well with a few minor exceptions and as I begin to prioritize and make plans to bring her back to stock I have a few questions and am looking for some advice to help point me in the right direction.
I found the VIN and other info off the Warranty Plate:
WOW - Thank you for the fast and complete response Bill.
Yep - it must have been a D because the upholstery is a brownish beige color.
That was much more info then expected and I spent the evening reading up on the MX Cruise-O-Matic, paying particular attention to the Dual Range functionality versus how the newer Select Shift transmissions work.
I also found out the ignition system was swapped for a Mallory setup and an old Dixco tachometer was installed on the steering column. Will add how to get it working again to my list as it looks pretty cool sitting up under the speedometer and seems to have been a very popular item to post-sale install on these trucks
This is a picture of the upholstery in the old blue truck, rumor is that this is original. Can anyone confirm this is "D81: D = Medium Beige Crush Vinyl & Medium Beige Cody Pattern Woven Plastic" ... Is this the original ?
Last edited by DangerBoyForty; Aug 7, 2013 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: Image Issue
Yep !! Very good condition and I will cover for the time being ... Uncle Ken sent me a rebuilt 2V carburetor to install and I did it this weekend. The 352 purrs now instead of dying at stop signs but I will need to read up on how to tune this thing as when I pull away from stop signs I am getting a bit of hesitation before she starts revv'ing...hmmmmm
Uncle Ken sent me a rebuilt 2V carburetor to install and I did it this weekend.
The 352 purrs now instead of dying at stop signs but I will need to read up on how to tune this thing as when I pull away from stop signs I am getting a bit of hesitation before she starts revv'ing...hmmmmm
How long did that 'rebuilt' 2V carb lay around before being installed? Home of American Graffiti (Modesto/Central Valley) known for looong hot summers.
Bogging down, stumbling, hesitating from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed: Over time, heat the causes accelerator pump and check valve to harden up, dry out. Carb then stumbles like a drunken sailor.
Oh, Bill thanks for the heads up - I was thinking the same after reading about these carburetors on the mustang forum this morning ... seem they talk a lot about them over there ... anyway ... from what I read, I should check the timing first, I already replaced the fuel filter before swapping the carburetors and then check again for vacuum leaks ... if I still have these symptoms should I look into the rebuild kits for new pump and check valve - does this sound right?
Oh, Bill thanks for the heads up - I was thinking the same after reading about these carburetors on the mustang forum this morning ... seem they talk a lot about them over there ... anyway ... from what I read, I should check the timing first, I already replaced the fuel filter before swapping the carburetors and then check again for vacuum leaks ... if I still have these symptoms should I look into the rebuild kits for new pump and check valve - does this sound right?
C4AZ-9B559-A .. Accelerator Pump (Motorcraft CM-463) & C4AZ-9576-A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM-825) also available in carb kit.
D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 series 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D) / Available from Ford/autoparts stores.
ALL 1962/74 FoMoCo Passenger Cars/trucks, 1966/74 Bronco's & 1969/74 Econolines.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- C4AZ-9365-B .. Corrogated Paper Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG-1A) / Available from Ford/autoparts stores.
Located inside a metal can that threads onto the fuel pump. Since many people are unaware, they install an inline fuel filter. Meanwhile this filter is getting more clogged up every day.
Thanks Bill ... this morning the boys and I pulled a couple of spark plugs and found Autolite 124's gap'd at .035 with the expected black coloring from the old carburetor running rich. With the FE 352 and a Mallory comp 9000 ignition a couple of quick questions for you all:
1. What spark plugs would you recommend?
2. With this electronic ignition is the .035 gap still recommended ? My reading indicates that with the mallory output in excess of 20,000+volts a larger gap may be preferred.
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