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I put my sinister diesel coolant filter kit in and when I put the filter on, I even lubed up the o-ring. Problem, it started leaking around seal when I was in town and so I just turned off the valves. I just figured it was loose. I cannot for the life of me get it to budge one way or the other.
Do I just pony up and destroy the filter and replace it, or is there a way to get it off without destroying the original?
I would recheck the fittings you have to screw into the housing first. May be leaking there and running down the filter. Sounds like the filter is on there pretty tight.
I had to buy a filter wrench to get mine off, could not budge it by hand.
Did you lube the seal on the filter before you screwed it on? Only tight on coolant filters...never TIGHT! First time I changed mine I finally had to remove the filter ***'by and put it in a vise and rip the he[[ out of it to remove it.
I've always had to put a wrench on mine to get it off. After a year, it is glued on there good. First time, I also had to take the head off the bracket to hold it. Since I've raised it up, I can get big channel lock pliers on the element now, and spin it off. But no way without a wrench.
So going some years back when we had a pool, the filter was a sta-rite stainless number with a cartridge in it. The housing split in the middle and had a clamp that held the 2 halves together and a large o-ring did the sealing. Second time I was having to replace the o-ring the pool parts store guy asks if I use "o-ring seal". That seal lasted 8 yrs, maybe even more as we moved -- the grease was the trick...
that stuff was just pure silcone grease, which most folks (other than us) use for things like spark plug boots (also known as di-electric grease).
I use the stuff on all o-rings and in particular ones having to do with water (like all the ones on my well filter system) -- no leaks and never stuck.
Has anyone tried this stuff on a coolant filter? I'm happy to be the first if not... filter system goes on next week (finally).
For Motors, O-Rings, Gaskets, Bearings and Water Filters.
Magic Lube is a Teflon based non-melting, non-toxic formula that is waterproof for use in both wet and dry environments. A wide temperature range, of 0 Degrees F to 425 Degrees F, makes Magic Lube ideal for use under the most adverse conditions.
It forms a durable adhesive film of lubricant that prevents metal to metal contact even under severe shock loads. Magic Lube is a superior lubricant compatible for use with most Metals, Rubbers, and Plastics. Magic Lube has been USDA. H-1 Rated to be environmentally safe and corrosion free.
For Motors, O-Rings, Gaskets, Bearings and Water Filters.
Magic Lube is a Teflon based non-melting, non-toxic formula that is waterproof for use in both wet and dry environments. A wide temperature range, of 0 Degrees F to 425 Degrees F, makes Magic Lube ideal for use under the most adverse conditions.
It forms a durable adhesive film of lubricant that prevents metal to metal contact even under severe shock loads. Magic Lube is a superior lubricant compatible for use with most Metals, Rubbers, and Plastics. Magic Lube has been USDA. H-1 Rated to be environmentally safe and corrosion free.
Sean
Did I mention it was years ago...? That's the stuff... But teflon, really? I have been using silicone grease for as long as I can remember now -- a week at least
I have been using a tube I have that is almost empty that I started in 97.
Does not take much and works so well. My only worry is about compatibility
with the coolant.
In the small aircraft industry we have a compound that goes on the filter
seal ring so that it won't stick. It helps somewhat. So I think so long as
you put something on it to help is to release your ahead of the game.
Even if you still have to get the wrench out.
Oh, I lubed it before it went on, I'm a farm boy from way back. I got the old one off, and hand tightened a new one on after I used even more grease this time. We will see.......