Horn button wire

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Aug 31, 2013 | 07:58 PM

#16

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

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From: NM

That's where it is in the V8, but the starter solenoid is where those 4 holes are below the data plate. I didn't realize the solenoid was switched on 6's, along with the battery.

Aug 31, 2013 | 08:44 PM

#17

pineconeford

Knuckle Bandage Sales Rep

Joined: Feb 2011

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From: Maine

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe

If the hole is plugged, just stick an awl or icepick in there to unplug it. Then use a shop vac to pull the debris out through the top of the column. At least that worked for me, and I didn't have to resort to explosives...

The obstruction is located about 13 inches from the bottom, just above the steering box. Something with a little resistance to it is in there, it might be the old wire all balled up and the contact end plate. I've had threaded rods, driveway marker rods, copper rods, all sorts of things poked up (and down) in there to dislodge it. Whatever it is, ain't no shop vac gonna pull it out. It hasn't budged since my first attempt to feed the new wire down through. I'll bet someone many years ago pulled the wire and cap from the steering box end and fetched it up at that union. Some PO rigged up a remote horn button on the dash a long time ago.

I gave up and am working on other parts of the cab. Have too many other things to work on before I'll need a working set of horns. Tomorrow though I might heat up the threaded rod with a torch and try to melt whatever the heck is stuck in there.
I do think it's cool that Ford used a hollow shaft to allow the horn wire to go straight through to the bottom, was surprised to find out that is where the wire went.

Tom

Aug 31, 2013 | 08:49 PM

#18

The Horvaths

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Joined: Sep 2012

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You may try compressed air. Wear safety glasses and put the dog inside.

Aug 31, 2013 | 09:14 PM

#19

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

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From: NM

I wouldn't recommend the heated rod, you might make a mess that would be very hard to clean out. Pushing up from the bottom will eliminate getting the slug over the lip of the lower tube.

Aug 31, 2013 | 09:19 PM

#20

Jolly Roger Joe

Lead Driver

Joined: Jul 2011

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From: Rockingham, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by pineconeford

It hasn't budged since my first attempt to feed the new wire down through. I'll bet someone many years ago pulled the wire and cap from the steering box end and fetched it up at that union. Some PO rigged up a remote horn button on the dash a long time ago.

Tom

How about using a long piece of stiff wire with a hook on the end to grab whatever it is? Like a really long spring hook made from a coat hanger or something like that.

Sep 1, 2013 | 03:53 AM

#21

big job

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Dec 2005

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No problem, what you do is feed a wire from the bottom up and tape the new
wire to that then pull the whole thing thru, from the bottom. Problem is with
these no matter what make, is there is a stand pipe "bottom of the box" so the oil dont come out. So the wire has to be perfectly feed through this skinny little
pipe. Sometimes it will be the first shot, sometimes ya fiddle with it all day.
just feed from the bottom

Sep 1, 2013 | 06:26 AM

#22

FortyNiner

Logistics Pro

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 4,995

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From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

I wouldn't recommend the heated rod, you might make a mess that would be very hard to clean out. Pushing up from the bottom will eliminate getting the slug over the lip of the lower tube.

I'm with Ross. Just replaced my horn wire. Even with a clean, unobstructed column tube, I still fought a bit with the process and needed to feed a pilot wire from the bottom to get past the lip. Gravity is going to ensure that any rigid wire moving from top to bottom is going to get hung-up. Brute force likely isn't your friend here.

Good luck with the nuclear option.

DW