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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Solution for the Root Cause. OIL COOLER???

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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
How you thinking about reroute of the Oil
Well, either Tee into the oil gauge switch or route a new line off the test port into the exhaust side of the EGR cooler.

From there I haven't given much thought from where to route the oil. Either thru a metered port into the oil pan or HPOP cover or what.

Even thought about taking the turbo supply into the EGR cooler and then a new line from cooler to the turbo.



Josh
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for all the info guys. I made an extremely good deal on an 06 king ranch with 112k miles. However, I rolled the dice when I inspected the ERG valve and found it completly pluged with wet SUT. No codes found with scanguage 11 and started right up. No apparent white smoke.

So I have been reading all of the great info from this site and I have a couple of questions.
1. EGR delete: seams like everyone is doing it. However, if the tell tell sign of oil cooler issues is indicated thru the Egr system, how do digagnoise oil cooler issues once the deletes in place? Also, what do you do with the valve? SCT and turn off?
2. Since the signs from my egr lead to egr cooler/oil cooler problems and since I will doing the work myself, I really don't want to chance going OEM and really don't want to spend $2K for a BPD upgrade kit.

Choices choices choices. What to do?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #18  
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If your in as far are the EGR delete you may as well remove a
few more bolts and do the cooler. When I say a few more and that is
about right. You have the top of the engine cleared off already.

Sean
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 07:55 AM
  #19  
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The key to making the oem cooler work is a clean cooling system. You can't just go through the motions of a flush and expect it to be clean. If the cooling system has not been maintained it will have trash in it.

I drained the system then removed the thermostat, removed the lower rad hose and pulled the block drains. Then put a hose in the degas tank and let it run until the water coming out the bottom was clear. Put the rad hose back on let the tank fill and fire up the truck and run the r's up until the tank runs out, let it refill and repeat, this will shoot water and any trash out the drains. Next I closed the system back up with the thermostat out, filled with tap water and drove the truck for 30 minutes. I then did a VC9 flush. After the vc9 i flushed it again with 20 gal of distilled water, left the last fill of distilled water in and drove the truck another 30 mins. And then I pulled it apart to change the cooler. I did this a year ago, with 15000 miles on the cooler and system filled with Cat ELC my deltas are 8-10 towing 10,000 lbs 6-8 empty.

There is no way I would put a BPD cooler on my truck, these trucks need all the airflow they can get to the radiator and the BPD system robs some of that, on top of that if you are in a cold climate there are issues with the oil not warming enough.

I'm on a 3000 mile road trip right now with my 5th wheel, the highest i have been able to get the oil temp was 236* with a coolant temp of 226*. That was climbing the long grade north on I24 out of Chattanooga with an outside air temp of 87*. The rest of the trip the oil ran 206-212 with coolant at 196-200.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 04:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jackdouglasjr
Thanks for all the info guys. I made an extremely good deal on an 06 king ranch with 112k miles. However, I rolled the dice when I inspected the ERG valve and found it completly pluged with wet SUT. No codes found with scanguage 11 and started right up. No apparent white smoke.

So I have been reading all of the great info from this site and I have a couple of questions.
1. EGR delete: seams like everyone is doing it. However, if the tell tell sign of oil cooler issues is indicated thru the Egr system, how do digagnoise oil cooler issues once the deletes in place? Also, what do you do with the valve? SCT and turn off?
2. Since the signs from my egr lead to egr cooler/oil cooler problems and since I will doing the work myself, I really don't want to chance going OEM and really don't want to spend $2K for a BPD upgrade kit.

Choices choices choices. What to do?
1. Your Scangauge2 will give you your EOT and ECT to tell you if your oil cooler is plugging up. Leave your EGR valve in place and plugged in. If you get a check engine light then turn it off with the SCT
2. My vote is OEM oil cooler and clean the cooling system as stated, and maintain it on a regular schedule. My reason is I can buy a few OEM oil coolers for the price of the BPD kit. Plus it an easy job to complete in the driveway with one long day.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jsm180
The key to making the oem cooler work is a clean cooling system. You can't just go through the motions of a flush and expect it to be clean. If the cooling system has not been maintained it will have trash in it.

I drained the system then removed the thermostat, removed the lower rad hose and pulled the block drains. Then put a hose in the degas tank and let it run until the water coming out the bottom was clear. Put the rad hose back on let the tank fill and fire up the truck and run the r's up until the tank runs out, let it refill and repeat, this will shoot water and any trash out the drains. Next I closed the system back up with the thermostat out, filled with tap water and drove the truck for 30 minutes. I then did a VC9 flush. After the vc9 i flushed it again with 20 gal of distilled water, left the last fill of distilled water in and drove the truck another 30 mins. And then I pulled it apart to change the cooler. I did this a year ago, with 15000 miles on the cooler and system filled with Cat ELC my deltas are 8-10 towing 10,000 lbs 6-8 empty.

There is no way I would put a BPD cooler on my truck, these trucks need all the airflow they can get to the radiator and the BPD system robs some of that, on top of that if you are in a cold climate there are issues with the oil not warming enough.

I'm on a 3000 mile road trip right now with my 5th wheel, the highest i have been able to get the oil temp was 236* with a coolant temp of 226*. That was climbing the long grade north on I24 out of Chattanooga with an outside air temp of 87*. The rest of the trip the oil ran 206-212 with coolant at 196-200.
Sorry but I have to disagree with you about the BPD oil cooler setup. I've never had an issue in hot (115* ambient) stop and go driving or cold (-20*) with mine and I've got one of the first cold weather kits. The warmest I ever saw was 209* and you can see from my teardown picture I posted how plugged my transmission cooler and CAC were.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 05:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Sorry but I have to disagree with you about the BPD oil cooler setup. I've never had an issue in hot (115* ambient) stop and go driving or cold (-20*) with mine and I've got one of the first cold weather kits. The warmest I ever saw was 209* and you can see from my teardown picture I posted how plugged my transmission cooler and CAC were.

That's good to hear it is working for you, still won't be going on my truck though. You're the first i have heard with temps that low while towing.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #23  
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My son pulls 16K to 18K depending whats in the trailer and has never had a problem with the DBP oil system. temps are fine.
 
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