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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 02:37 AM
  #1  
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Need more power

So i got a 76 f100 4x4 with a rebuilt 360 bored .40 with an rv cam. Truck runs great but I dont think it has enough a$$ in it. Im still running the stock ford 2bbl carb and stock most everything else except for true dual flowmaster exhaust. Truck has 36" tires, winch bumper and winch which adds a good bit of weight. Has dana 44 and ford 9 with 3.50 gears and a NP 435 4 speed.

What other motor upgrades should i do to get more out of the motor? I dont want a race truck but i want it to be 300+ hp. Also should i change the gear to 4.10 or 4.56? Truck has a lot of torque in low gears as is but drags in 3 and 4 a little.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:12 AM
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__460 , that what i did to my bronco.__
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jim collins
__460 , that what i did to my bronco.__
That would definately be nice but ive already spent a lot of money on this motor and id like to keep it all original
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by breedo99
That would definately be nice but ive already spent a lot of money on this motor and id like to keep it all original
Yeah i know what you mean , you can do a lot with the FE , I haven't worked with them enough to advice you but you should get some help here after everybody get's out of bed for the day __
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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The "quickest" way to wake up a 360 is headers, a decent aluminum intake and a carb around 600-650 cfm. Another, more complicated, thing to address is the low compression that all 360's have. The "easiest" way to accomplish this is make it a 390 w/ flat top pistons. 390 crank, rods and pistons, along with the +.040" bore will not only bump the displacement up 37.7 cubic inches but will bring the compression up to around 9.5:1.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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The headers intake and carb will help. Ignition wouldn't hurt either, but the 390 crank will yield more than anything and you will be impressed. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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I would vote for headers, aluminum intake, and bigger carb. Not only will it help with power, it looks pretty in the engine bay.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 04:35 PM
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4.11 gears would help the seat of the pants feel, 4.56 if you don't do a lot of freeway driving. Headers, intake and a 4 barrel would help the motor breath.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Good article on why the FE motors could use headers: Exhaust.htm
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by V10man
Good article on why the FE motors could use headers: Exhaust.htm
Good read V10man, thanks for posting that.
Reps sent.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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With tallish tires 4.10 or 4.11 rear would give noticeably more pep. A manifold and 4 bbl would help also.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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What carb, headers, and intake do you guys recommend for these trucks?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by breedo99
What carb, headers, and intake do you guys recommend for these trucks?
How do you drive the truck bud, might help with others suggestions on what parts to get?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:45 PM
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I also have a 1976 F-100 4x4 with a 360 and np-435.

Before swapping my 360 out for a 428 that I built, I put an Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake - part number 7105 and Edelbrock 600cfm Carb - part number 1406 on the 360. This woke the motor up a little bit and I already had 2 1/4" straight pipe ran out the back for the exhaust. But, it didn't make as big as a difference as it could have had I also freed up the flow of the exhaust with headers. To put it point blank, factory FE manifolds SUCK.

I would get an Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM intake, a 600-650cfm carb of choice, and a set of headers. When I put the 428 in the truck I used Hooker Headers. Part number 6906HKR. They fit excellent and flow pretty good.

It helps a little bit to read the installation instructions on the headers as I fooled with them for a good while before I gave in and read the directions... I ended up not following them exactly. This is what I did, and it may work for you as well. I picked the motor up out of the mounts with an engine hoist about as high as it would go with the tranny bolted to it. I took the clutch linkage off the block and loosened the bracket from the frame. Slid the driver side header up from the bottom and it went in nice and easy. It is helpful to have someone helping you that can put a few bolts in while you hold it in place from underneath. For the passenger side, I removed the starter. Slid the header up from the bottom again. The mistake I made was bolting the header on before putting the starter back in place. I'm sure it would have gone in, but to save you the trouble, its easier to put the header in place and slide the starter in. Put a bolt or two in the starter to hold it in place and then put the bolts in for the headers. Set the motor down, tighten everything up and put the clutch linkage back on and I was ready to roll. Not a complicated job, just slightly time consuming. Hookers instructions said to disconnect the front driveshaft, but I didn't have to.

Good luck. Hope you get the power you're looking for out of it.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by blue04.5
How do you drive the truck bud, might help with others suggestions on what parts to get?
Well i had intentions of only driving it as a hunting truck but the more i drive it the more i love driving it. I dont drive it a whole lot because i work off a month at a time. When im home i drive it a good bit. Got a 30 minute drive to the huntin lease which i make a few times everytime im home. Its only seen interstate once. And i put it in the mud around the huntin lease occassionally.
 
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