When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
O.k. After talking to a local diesel guy, he told me he was pretty darn sure my injection pump was at fault for my truck not starting. So I went and bought one and replaced it. *sigh*
Here's where the problems began. After I bought the truck (around Sept. 11, 2001), I noticed it got harder and harder to start as time went on. I've never changed anything like the ignition pump or any of the settings except the FIPL sensor, and that didn't change anything after the install. I've replaced the injection tubing twice now, the last time just recently, including all the hoses, o-rings, and copper washers under the injectors. I've also replaced the glow plugs, glow plug relay, starter, positive battery cable, and a few other misc. things I can't think of at the moment (the aforementioned injection pump as well).
The real trouble all started one day when I went out to use the truck (it never got constant usage by any means, just on weekends or dump run days) and it would not start at all. I cranked and cranked giving it plenty of time between cranks to cool down. After looking things over, this diesel guy I talked to at a local parts store (customer, not an employee, but a diesel mechanic otherwise) said that it sounded like my injection pump/pump timing might need to be checked. I tried to set static timing but that didn't change anything. Although, through this whole process I did manage to get it to spit and sputter like it was going to start. After the install of the new IP, nothing has changed. It still spits and sputters like it's just about to start but never actually gets going, just acts like it is. The static timing is set to the top timing mark on the drive gear housing. There are other timing marks there but the one on top is the one I'm going with. Nothing is different or has changed since the removal of the other IP. I have fuel squirting out at each injector head with each individual fuel line connector cracked while cranking over the engine, tightening each one as I check them, working my way from the front of the motor to the furthest away from the pump as I go. I'm at a loss for things to check now as I'm still learning about the 7.3L IDI. What could be my problem?
Btw, my truck is an '89 F-250 4x4 if you needed to know. Thanks!
Disconnect the GPs, throw in some ether(just a little bit, no need for a lot). See if that'll get it running.
I'm wondering if your engine's just worn, and not making the compression it used to... which would result in hard starts, especially cold, until you get to the point of /no/ start when cold.
Did you take the housing and big gear the injector pump is bolted to off with the pump? If so did you take steps to make sure the gear goes back on in the same position.
Those timing marks are useless. The ones on the pump were put there for a different engine and the ones on your timing gear housing are for your old pump.
Did you take the housing and big gear the injector pump is bolted to off with the pump? If so did you take steps to make sure the gear goes back on in the same position.
No, I did not remove it. Just took the IP out from the back of the gear.
No smoke of any kind coming out of the tailpipe at the moment. I did have some smoke coming out of the pipe when it did run while turning it over I think (this was awhile ago so my memory is not so good on it) and it was white smoke. Also had a good amount after it would actually start up as well. Black smoke I think.
Would smoke coming out the tailpipe while cranking indicate bad valves and unburned fuel getting past, or something of that nature? Or something similar?
If it was getting fuel and no glow plugs, it should be pumping white smoke out of the tailpipe. It sounds to me like it is turning over plenty fast enough. I'd say you have air in the system. Have you bled it?