Another great member of this forum over in the SD section was able to read my codes and this is what Im looking at


I have 2 of the same IDM codes. Im looking into buying a new IDM, but do you guys have any opinions on these.


p1316 IDM


p0603 PCM KAM Erorr


p1000 OBD rediness (stoping computer from full test??)

_______


p1316 IDM

 

What are your symptoms? Did he buzz test the injectors for you?

Most common cause for a P1316 is a burnt connector on the UVCH.

 

I have inspected all the connectors for the UVCH and it looked great.

My IDM connections had corrosion on them, cleaned them did not solve the problem.

No blown fuses.

Truck seems likes Air is maybe in it or if it were running on 6 cylinders it sounds gnalry.

It really is not driveable, starts fairly easy.

We did not do a Injector buzz test.

 

Have you ohmed the UVCH ?

You could have bad wires under the valve covers

 

What is "ohmed"

 

Ohm with a multimeter Not sure why my phone put ohmed

If you unplug the harness from the valve covers you can test the UVCH with a multimeter.

Glow plugs shouldn't be over 1.5
Injectors should be around 3.5

This is the layout of the pins
GP-I-G-I-GP

GP= glow plug
I= injector
G= ground

 

These aren't super duty UVCH's homie.

GP-I-G-I-GP..

OP, normally when the UVCHs melt down, it will be under the valve covers where you can't see them. I'd ohm test them all before pulling the valve covers to see if you can find which side is the culprit.

 

Thank you very much for the info.

I know this is a dumb question but electrical stuff is my downfall. I need to put the negative "prong" to a Ground. would the engine work?

 

If the gasket connections are melted , you need to replace the gaskets and harness under them . You will likely need to repair the external plugs also . Ohm them out , or pull the valve covers and look for burnt/melted connections . Common nasty issue . I see it on both the double plug and single plug systems .I like the FoMoCo kits but have used some aftermarket kits with good results .

 

Yeah I keep forgetting I swapped.

 

Go back and look at my post again.


Not sure what you're asking

 

Yes, just make sure it's bare metal and not covered in gunk or paint. One of the bolts holding on the ac or alternator will work too. Or the negative post of the battery.

 

Ohm is a value for electrical resistant.The higher the Value, the Higher the restriction. Kinda like this: Ford downpipe has a high restriction on the exhaust,therefore, the engine does not work as good. change it to a 3” round downpipe, with less restriction, you get more power.
Same with the electrical. High restriction, ie due to burned connectors, do not allow as much power to the injectors, therfore you have problems with running.


anyway, you need to measure also between the ground and the power cable. This link should help to troubleshoot the system

GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

 

here a link, that has helped me . a lot of useful info:

Tips - Idea - Hints

 

So tell me if I did this wrong.

I received NO readings on my multimeter from any of the ports on the valve covers.

On the passenger side pigtail, the only reading I got was 2 on the grounds.

On the drivers side pigtail, the only reading I got was 4 on the grounds as well.

So it sounds like my harness is bad?