Best strategy for valve colver removal, installation
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Best strategy for valve colver removal, installation
Since I bought this truck the valve covers have seeped oil, especially after it's been run for a while. It's one of the reasons I really haven't driven this truck much and now I'm going to fix it.
Kind of a crappy picture, but you get the idea, it's a leak from just below the rear, and second to the rear most outside hold downs.
What is the best gasket to use, should I do anything while I've got it off? Does the filter/alternator bracket etc... need to come off too?
Thanks!
Kind of a crappy picture, but you get the idea, it's a leak from just below the rear, and second to the rear most outside hold downs.
What is the best gasket to use, should I do anything while I've got it off? Does the filter/alternator bracket etc... need to come off too?
Thanks!
Tuned
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From: Bluffton, IN
I got my valve cover gaskets from napa. Nothing special that I know of. I did not change the side with the alternator but I have taken a valve cover of a donor engine with the alternator braket on. It wasn't impossible but I used many universal joints and other techniques to get to the bolts. It wast fun.
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I want lie, the passenger side sucks. The way I did it is remove the fuel filter bracket and clear up that space then remove v cover bolts. I used a swivel socket and some shorty wrenches .
I forgot exactly but you have to pull the back of the cover up then slide it forward then twist it then pull it then twist it and cuss and repeat and it will finally come out pass the air box.
The hardest part for me was keeping the gasket in place while trying to get the cover back on. The gasket comes with keepers that hold to the valve covers but if you clean the gasket area with brake clean and spray on some 3m adhesive to the gasket and the cover and let it set up it will hold the gasket in place
I forgot exactly but you have to pull the back of the cover up then slide it forward then twist it then pull it then twist it and cuss and repeat and it will finally come out pass the air box.
The hardest part for me was keeping the gasket in place while trying to get the cover back on. The gasket comes with keepers that hold to the valve covers but if you clean the gasket area with brake clean and spray on some 3m adhesive to the gasket and the cover and let it set up it will hold the gasket in place
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From: Poway, CA
Mike
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I can't believe that didn't think of that, the bolt where the worst leak was took about a turn and a half before it was snug, the other two went down about a turn with little resistance. It doesn't seem to be leaking anymore, I imagine I shouldn't torque these down tight because it could damage the cover, but wow I sure hope that did the trick.
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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From: Paullina IA
Torque on them is like 6 ftlb or something like that. I actually torqued the last set I did and was tighter than I'd of thought. I normally use fel pro. Also the passenger side isn't that bad but the filter head needs to come off. Normally I do a thermostat at the same time if it's unknown. Your right there anyway.
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I may end up doing the stat anyway. Had a weird issue with temp gauge spikes that would only last about five-ten seconds but would max out the gauge.
I just put in a mechanical temp gauge, added some grounds, and cleaned the corroded sender contacts. So far it hasn't done it again, but it makes me think the stat might be sticking every so often.
I just put in a mechanical temp gauge, added some grounds, and cleaned the corroded sender contacts. So far it hasn't done it again, but it makes me think the stat might be sticking every so often.
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