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That clears a few things up... I have never seen a flat plate like the one you replaced with the deep sump. Mine is not as long as the Max overdrive unit you bought but looks similar... http://www.gearvendors.com/shop_images/BW1345.jpg
Thanks for the picture rich tutorial btw, that is great.
No problem. I have about 3 other non-GV-related tutorials that are just taking up space on my camera's memory card that I've been meaning to put on the forum. I figure this GV thing is unique and worth putting up right away for future reference. When you google Deep Sump, there isn't a lot of research out there.
I'm hoping the length of the Max Overdrive sump is not a problem structurally. That's a lot of moment force on the three rear pan bolts, considering the previous thing it had to hold up was just the direct force from the pan and its gear oil. I'm tempted to build a support from the two bolt holes directly above the cantilevered section of the deep sump.
The guys at GV claim I'm pushing my Type J too hard, but oh well. I figure if I maintain it and keep an eye on it, I should be OK.
Pushing it too hard? Their Web site makes it sound like their OD units are practically indestructable. The only thing they seem to caution against is towing / hauling in double OD with something like a ZF-5 or E4OD. Seems like the Marketing department's hype doesn't quite match with the Engineering department's reality.
What about an external cooler? You could tap a second hole in the sump and install an electric pump.
I've thought of making an external cooler. It'd be easy enough with all this cast metal on the sump. But first i'll see how hot it's getting with the deep sump upgrade, now that i have a functioning temp probe and gauge.
GV engineering dept always scolds me for what I'm doing with the Type J. I think they are just trying to scare me into buying a new Type P, but who has 3000 bucks for a new unit???