Overdrive Unit
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If you are mainly doing in town driving do you think it is worth the price overtime? I will only be doing long trips once a month, I read on one of these posts that an overdrive isnt really effective for in town mileage. I am wondering because my truck is going to be my daily driver and there is no way I would ever sell it, so to me its worth putting some money into making it more efficient, even though it will get 15mpg tops. I would like it to drive nice in town as well as on the highway. So its a debate, Overdrive unit vs. AOD Tranny.
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If your rig is sporting a 351m or 400, the AOD won't bolt up without an adaptor, so add $650 or so, IF it will work. Since the AOD is a weak sister and a pricey one at that, if you got a built AOD and the adaptor, you are close to the same price as the Gear Vendor.
You can save gas, but probably not money.
What trans and axle ratio do you have now? A taller axle might work for you, depending on what else you use the truck for.
You can save gas, but probably not money.
What trans and axle ratio do you have now? A taller axle might work for you, depending on what else you use the truck for.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
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From: NE Texas
You need to do some math. With gas prices falling, you will have to do LOTS and LOTS of driving to pay for it.
From an accounting perspective, if you pay the money up front it would be a VERY long term investment. If OTOH you were to buy it on a credit card, you would paying long term versus paying slightly more for gas over a long term.
From an accounting perspective, if you pay the money up front it would be a VERY long term investment. If OTOH you were to buy it on a credit card, you would paying long term versus paying slightly more for gas over a long term.
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Im not sure what the rear axle ratio is, but im pretty sure its stock. Its a 77 Ranger F-150 Shortbed, 4 wheel drive with the 400 and a C4. I have 33" BFgoodrich allterrains on it. I do a 150 mile trip on the interstate about once a month and would like it to run easy when I do that. Im looking for around 70mph top speed for that trip.
Rear Diff Code:
WFE-V2 7CA
L11 9 393(4 or A cant tell)
Sorry, couldnt figure out how to decode.
I want it to be as efficient as possible in town, as well as on the highway(I understand the best would be 15mpg, if that)
Rear Diff Code:
WFE-V2 7CA
L11 9 393(4 or A cant tell)
Sorry, couldnt figure out how to decode.
I want it to be as efficient as possible in town, as well as on the highway(I understand the best would be 15mpg, if that)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: USA
There is really no inexpensive solution for our trucks if equipped with the 351M/400 engines. Ford used the AOD behind the 460 for a couple of years and then discontinued it. Therefore it is possible to bolt an AOD to the 351M/400 but it requires a special torque converter because there is a difference in the distance from the flex plate to the block between the 335 series and the 385 series. If you have a 4x4 the it's even more difficult as you need the tail shaft adapter to handle the transfer case. It is my understanding that Art Carr Transmissions (www.artcarr.com/) can build one to fit the 335 series w/4x4 and is built to handle the higher torque but the price is somewhere north of $2500.00.
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So pretty much for around the same price you could do the overdrive unit from Gearvendors without having to worry about any of that. My C4 was rebuilt a few years ago so I think i might as well keep it. So lets say im going the overdrive unit route.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: USA
Im not sure what the rear axle ratio is, but im pretty sure its stock. Its a 77 Ranger F-150 Shortbed, 4 wheel drive with the 400 and a C4. I have 33" BFgoodrich allterrains on it. I do a 150 mile trip on the interstate about once a month and would like it to run easy when I do that. Im looking for around 70mph top speed for that trip.
Rear Diff Code:
WFE-V2 7CA
L11 9 393(4 or A cant tell)
Sorry, couldnt figure out how to decode.
I want it to be as efficient as possible in town, as well as on the highway(I understand the best would be 15mpg, if that)
Rear Diff Code:
WFE-V2 7CA
L11 9 393(4 or A cant tell)
Sorry, couldnt figure out how to decode.
I want it to be as efficient as possible in town, as well as on the highway(I understand the best would be 15mpg, if that)
Don't take this wrong, it is your truck and I'm not there but: Take a look at your pan gasket on your transmission and compare it to the pictures. I too have a 77 F-150 shortbed 4x4, built in San Jose, Ca. and sold in Utah. The DSO(District/Special Order) code on the door is 76 which is the Denver district. It came with the 400 engine, C-6 transmission and NP205 transfer case. Check my gallery. The C-4 was pretty much reserved for the smaller engines(I-6 & 302) and the C-6 was placed behind the 351M's, 400's and 460's. Based on your data tag your rear ratio is probably 3.93:1. You could gain a little by going to a lower(numarically) ratio but you have to change both axles.
Last edited by garypettengill; Nov 15, 2008 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Photos
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Longwood, Fl
Doug Nash/Richmond Gear
I had one of the above OD units on my 460 van w/c6. A Richmond tech told me, when I asked how strong it was, that I would break everything else before it broke! An adapter replaced the tailshaft and it bolted to that. It was electrical shift, but not automatic. That has been a while ago!
I did not like it. First, it was not a smooth shift, let off gas, press button and wait for "clunk". It also whined. Second, it was only a 20% OD, which was not enough to benefit, because the old 460 (after I tuned that sucker) had enough torque to pull a lot more gear when not towing. I dont know about the later OD units (standalone), no doubt they are smoother. Like others have said, you better use all fingers and toes to calculate the projected return for your money.
You might also consider a BB (460) E4OD and get a standalone shift controller. I have one in my 5.8 bronco and really like it. I have done a new converter and a shift kit. Unfortunately, this too will not be cheap, but at lease it should work well on the 400 (in my humble opinion
)
I did not like it. First, it was not a smooth shift, let off gas, press button and wait for "clunk". It also whined. Second, it was only a 20% OD, which was not enough to benefit, because the old 460 (after I tuned that sucker) had enough torque to pull a lot more gear when not towing. I dont know about the later OD units (standalone), no doubt they are smoother. Like others have said, you better use all fingers and toes to calculate the projected return for your money.
You might also consider a BB (460) E4OD and get a standalone shift controller. I have one in my 5.8 bronco and really like it. I have done a new converter and a shift kit. Unfortunately, this too will not be cheap, but at lease it should work well on the 400 (in my humble opinion
)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: USA
You may have already seen this but if not it's a good read. Go to "Articles/Specs" at the top of the page, then "list articles", then "transmissions" , and look up this article: Complete Overdrive Conversion for '78-'79 Ford Bronco.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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Sorry for this hi-jack but...Garypettengill, you said the 460 came with the AOD for a little while...do you know what years or what package? Like you said it was the weak sister tranny, and I'm 99% sure the only auto trannies that came behind the 460 was the C6 or E4OD. So if you don't mind, could you exlain this for me?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: USA
Sorry for this hi-jack but...Garypettengill, you said the 460 came with the AOD for a little while...do you know what years or what package? Like you said it was the weak sister tranny, and I'm 99% sure the only auto trannies that came behind the 460 was the C6 or E4OD. So if you don't mind, could you exlain this for me?
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