ahother overheating problem

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Jul 21, 2013 | 07:50 PM

pa-12

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ahother overheating problem

I have a 1994 f350, 7.3 IDI, sidewinder kit, E4OD. Runs great except under heavy load. 12K to 17K. New rad,water pump, motorcraft thermostat. Does blow a bit of black smoke when lugging. E4OD out to lunch again, But overheating prior. Will a slipping trany overheat the engine. Has external cooler and filter. Runs up to shut down temp although winter time keeps it cool. I've also heard the fuel pump can do this. Pump was rebuilt. Pyrometer never tops 900. I've read the other forms but have not found the answer yet.

PS. not head gasket

Thanks for any help.

Jul 21, 2013 | 07:53 PM

Macrobb

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Do you have any method of verifying that it indeed is getting too hot? A temp sensor other than the stock one, something like that?
I know that the stock sensors aren't incredibly accurate, and poor grounds can cause any number of issues with the sensors(as they're resistance-based, adding extra resistance between the gauge and the device can throw it one way or another).

Jul 21, 2013 | 08:00 PM

pa-12

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Have not put on another sensor. But when we changed the thermostat it did change the where the needle ran. also set off idiot light.

Jul 21, 2013 | 08:06 PM

Forddiesel17

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From: Bluffton, IN

fan clutch operating correctly? if it doesnt lock up at some point it would cause higher temps.

Jul 21, 2013 | 08:15 PM

pa-12

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yup, forgot, replaced that also.

Jul 21, 2013 | 08:43 PM

idiabuse

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From: Miami Fl

Evans Coolant eliminates boilover and is a lifetime coolant.

Solves all coolant issues forever.
You may lose life long friends over it but that is actually worth it
in the long run...

Javier

Jul 21, 2013 | 10:56 PM

Macrobb

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Aside from the gauge going to the 'hot' side, is there any other issues you've seen? Does it feel hooter than normal under the hood after it 'overheats'... are you getting steam coming out from under the pressure cap?

I just have to wonder, because the boilover point of pure water under our 13PSI cap should be around 244deg... With 50% glycol, we're probably talking 270 deg. I don't think the hot side on our crummy gauge -- even if it's working properly -- is anywhere near that, so...

Also, I will point out that a high resistance condition should manifest itself as a "shift" in the range, not in a complete not-work condition. So it would still appear to be working, just off.

Before you spend a lot of money fixing this, go on Ebay and buy a cheap, digital temp gauge. $20, and ships from the US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Motor-Black-2-52mm-Red-Digital-LED-Electronic-Water-Temp-Temperature-Gauge-/161014971759?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257d3d7d6f&vxp=mtrI've got one, seems to work accurately.
Should tell you if it's a real problem or not.