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Cranks but doesn't start????

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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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Cranks but doesn't start????

I have a 2005 F350 that I bought new and it has never been modified. I change the oil and filter every 5K, Fuel filters at 15K. It has 106K miles on it now and I changed the oil and OEM filter 10 days ago and never had an issue until now. I noticed a week ago that when I turned the key to crank the engine over it took a second or two longer to fire up and start. This happened a couple of times, nothing too drastic, but long enough cranking time to notice. Yesterday, I filled up the fuel tank and drove to my work about an hours drive. I went to start the truck and now it will only crank and turn over but it will not fire up and start. Is there anything I can check before I have it towed to the dealer? ICP sensor???

Thank you for your imput!

Mike
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 02:24 PM
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You can try pulling the plug off the ICP, which causes the PCM to assume a default pressure of 500psi. Then see if it starts...

Do you have anything to monitor the truck's sensors? Torque for a droid device, DashBoss for an Apple device or a scangauge II -- that sort of thing?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 03:05 PM
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Thanks for your reply Diesel Dan. My truck is still at my work and I will try disconnecting the ICP sensor in the morning. Where exactly is it located on the passenger side of the engine?? The engine runs fine once started so I don't think it's anything major. If it starts and runs with the ICP sensor unplugged, can I replace the ICP sensor myself?
No, I don't have anything to read codes but I think one is in my immediate future!!!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Your ICP is in the passenger side valve cover. It is probably the standpipes, dummy plugs and or the STC fitting that are leaking. There are updated parts for these. And you really do need some gauges that read live data, otherwise you will just be throwing parts at it. The first repair you are able to do yourself will pay for the gauges, and if you don't do the repair yourself at least you will be able to make an informed decision on repairs. They also help you spot problems before you are left sitting on the side of the road.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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Do you have a smartphone? There are experts here on both Torque Pro for Droids and DashBoss for iPhones. If no smartphone there is a huge knowledge base here on ScangaugeII.

I'd get one of these going soon... Torque is cheapest then SGII (sounds like prices are coming down on them) and next DB, but still it's around $160...

Brett and many others will help you through most anything...
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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Coincidence you just did oil filters? Be sure you use genuine FORD filters AND oil cap!
Double check your oil filter is seated properly, pull it and reinstall. There is an oil drain back in the bottom..

I just had my ficm repaired, because low voltage internal to ficm caused crank no start... the scangauge2 helped identify the issue, i could cycle the key off/on/off/on and it would eventually get 48v and i could start truck.

Strongly suggest you get something to monitor your 6L.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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I would like to thank everyone for their input/replies. I decided to start with the simple things to check first before throwing parts at it or taking it to the dealer. Even though I can turn the engine over effortlessly, I decided to put a battery charger on it to top off the batteries. Well, It cranked and started right up!!! So I will be buying 2 new batteries from ford today for $239.90, 850 CCA motorcraft batteries. The original ones are 750 CCA and the replacements are the exact same size and will fit in the old spots. I know to swap out one at a time to keep power to the FCIM. I will be purchasing a SGII as well so I can see what my engine is doing before I'm left on the side road. My 2005 F350 has been trouble free and had I changed out my batteries sooner it would never had an issue.

Thanks again,

Mike
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 02:47 PM
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You don't have to do them one at a time -- won't affect the FICM at all, now you may have to reset your clock... It's actually a bit safer to disconnect both and tie wires out of the way -- less chance of doing any unwanted "welding" that way.

Sorry that I didn't think of the Batts -- that has happened to me before too...
 
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