I realized that I needed to put a Banks turbo on my engine to get some real power, and last week found one on CL for $500. Call him up Friday, and it's on a '93 idi engine, and wants $900 for both, has a buyer lined up for Monday.
I bought them both Friday, because it seemed like a good deal - 900 isn't that bad for just the turbo, if it's in good shape(I think).
Anyway, I checked it out, and the turbo seems perfect - no end play, turns smoothly and things were surprisingly not rusted that badly(I'm guessing the turbo wasn't on that long).

My original plan called for putting this turbo on my '88 F250, but I've been thinking about just building up this '93 motor, and dropping the whole thing in my truck.
Here's some pictures:
Offloading: Link
Turbo side: Link

Block, mounted on a heavy duty engine stand. Top of the engine has been stripped:
Link
Parts layed out:
Link
Turbo:
Link
Lifters, all labeled
Link

Now, here's some closeups of a couple of the lifters. Note the wear:
Link
Link

Can this tell me anything?
A couple of the lifters have a bit of wear at that spot - down a couple of thou at least, if not .005+. Some have those markings, but aren't more than a couple of tenths(.0001).
Is this normal wear and tear, or should I get in and deburr the edges of the oil journels where that wear would come from?

Also, the cyl walls look pretty darn smooth, no noticable crosshatch that I can see. I'm wondering what I should be looking for, wear wise, and what I should replace while the engine is apart.

I'm already planning on getting the cam ground to better take advantage of the turbo - probably a Typ4 grind, to help with torque at the low end(where the turbo isn't as useful), but I don't know enough yet.

I haven't taken the oil pan off, but it does rotate smoothly - when I first found the engine, it had a "sticky" spot when turning it over, which turned out to be a little rust on the side of one of the cyl walls(likely due to sitting for three years or so). Cleaned it with scotch-brite, and it seems to be OK.


Any hints/stuff to check guys?

-Rob

 

My .02 the Torqueshaft aka type4 grind is a NA cam. That being said, i wouldnt run one in a turbo'd engine. THAT being said, it is better than stock, however i believe the stage 1 would be preferable in this situation due to being turbocharged.

If you have the engine tore down, haul it in and have the block mic'd or mic it yourself if you can. That will tell you if the cylinders are good, or need cleaned up.

 

Many have run the Typ4 cam on a turbo engine with very good results, especially with mild boost levels (such as a Banks sidewinder). Just throwing that out there. I would like to see a dyno comparison of Type4 vs. R&D Stage 1, simply because the Type4 has such an aggressive early torque curve... it would be nice to know how the Stage 1 compares. I bought (and now decided against using) the J2 cam, because the bottom end is soft, especially in high gear, which won't work for me. My understanding of the Stage 1 is it is like the J2 but with the curve shifted down in rpm. Whether it is as strong at the bottom end as the Typ4 I don't know. My primary motivation for wanting to go with the Stage 1 is because I will be running a fairly high output turbo (BW137222) with no wastegate and stock compression. I will want that little bit of bleed off. I'm not trying to say one cam is better than the other, or make any kind of recommendation... I'm just sayin'... dig up the cam threads and posts in Racin's build thread. Read up on 'em and don't just dismiss the Typ4 because it isn't a "turbo" cam.

 

Deleted... Double post.

 

This was why I was thinking the Typ4 cam might be perfect; I've got a wastegated sidewinder there, and as such it won't be putting out /massive/ boost, especially at the ~1600RPM I expect to be running things at most of the time(60MPH, GV overdrive + 5-speed + 4.11 rear axle). I expect also to be doing quite a bit of stuff in lower RPM than that, and I hear turbos aren't as good at lower RPMs.

When using a micrometer to check the cyls, am I just checking for out-of-round(I recall something about that in the book), or something else?

 

.............................

that's Russ' grind kicking tail and taking names off the line.

iv often said it,but it's been awhile so what the heck.if i ever have to pull my engine,she wouldn't go back in without the torque cam.sure others may look cool and peak higher,but the grind from Russ puts the nuts right where you want it for 99% street/tow use imho.

 

Russ's grind is what exactly? Typ4?
Also, are the red lines from a stock NA engine, turbo with stock cam, or what?

 

blue is torque red is horsepower. Those are the stock, type4 and stage 1. However i want to point out comparing that dyno sheet isnt going to be that accurate, racin had a completely different turbo setup than russ. S362 vs 60-1 093. I personally feel the difference was due mostly to the s362 being a little soft on the bottom end.

My understanding of the torque cam vs stage 1 goes as thus: The stage 1 is pretty close to the torque cam on the exhaust lobe. The stage one has a better LSA and more lift on the intake lobe, the torque cam is stock intake. The LSA helps to drop reversion (exhaust gas being forced back into the combustion chamber while both valves are open), which is a problem with the stock cam and forced induction. The LSA on the stage 1 helps cut down on that, however as a byproduct slightly drops dynamic compression ratio. Given that our engines have such high compression, that isnt a problem for me.
To sum it up, i think a cam comparison between the two in the same engine the stage 1 would have the same low end as the torque cam while beating it in midrange and really pulling on the top end. All while building less boost, cooler intake temps and cooler egts.
Thats what i think, whether im right or wrong is hard to say.

 

I am on my phone, and have not been able to track down the original source of that dyno sheet, but I'm remembering it to be stock cam, Type4 cam and the J2, ~not the R&D Stage 1. The J2 comparison isn't a comparison at all because NMB2's truck had lowered compression different turbo, different fuel... everything. You can't really tell much that way. Racin' had the J2 in his truck, then switched it out for the Stage 1. ~That is a comparison. I don't know of anyone who has had both the Type4 and Stage 1 in the same truck, or even two dyno sheets from similar trucks with those two cams. I doubt that you can go wrong with either one, and they both have a reputation for great low end response, but I suspect that the Stage 1 has the advantage when running a turbo, and that advantage becomes greater as you run more boost. I have nothing to back this up, it's just my impression from following cam threads for a while.

 

RacinNdrummin/ 1988 7.3 5-spd/(235/477@18 psi)/S362,DPS turbo cal,J2 CAM,IC'd
Typ4/ 1991 F350 5-spd/(218/461@14psi)/60-1 wheel,CAI,typ4 cam, IC'd
91dirtydiesel/ 1991 F350 5-spd/(202/419@17psi)/ATS turbo,Intake tube & filter,5" exhaust

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...no-day-v1.html

looks like it.he hasn't been on a dyno with the new cam yet? when did he switch?

 

Wow.. i totally forgot he was running the J2 then. I guess its time to talk russ or justin into a cam swap or two lol... probably pretty unlikely.

 

yeah it's pretty tough.i haven't been following,but im sure he's likely done a lot since just swapping cams too,so a new dyno run now (if he hasn't done one again yet) likely wouldn't give us much either.
it would be cool to see a couple diff cams in the same exact engine (with one of the big 3 turbo's just because it would help the masses - well turbo idi's are already in the minority as is,but the masses for those who do anyway) but like you say.....not likely lol.

 

If it wasnt such a pain to swap cams i would volunteer. I would say i stand by what i said x2 now though if thats the J2

 

Just wait a bit guys, Ill get the Stg1 on the Dyno, it would have been sooner, but my IDIT just doesn't wanna cooperate... It feels like peak torque is right about 18-1900RPM, that's where it drives the best, but we will see, The proof is in the pudding...

 

No worries, I don't see myself doing anything until mid august at least(after /next/ payday <_< ).
I'm quite interested in what I can do around the 1200-1600RPM range for good efficiency and power; right now I can't climb a relatively steep hill unloaded in high gear at 60mph/1600(I slowly lose speed). I'm guessing that with this turbo and a good cam, I should be able to cruise up it at that, and downshift if I need to do some accelerating.