no such thing as 4 valve heads, at least in regards to mid 80s stock 351W HO. I think the confusion is with the carb when people see the 4 bbl and V for Ver- something. im a bad speller but know it has to due with the 4 ports for the air and fuel flow on the carb. yes those r the e7 heads.

 

Im not sure but I think there is 4v heads and 2v heads for the 351c just earlier like 60s-70s the 4v was supposedly hotter but on powerblock they tested 2v vs 4v and on a mild build the 2v out performed

 

No, all 351W heads are 2 valve, the 4V you are seeing stands for venturi. As in 4 venturi carburetor.

 

Had to add my 2.5c worth as everyone else has.

Theres an old theory that says 2 v heads are for low end torque (trucks)

4 v heads are for high Rpm horse power (lite cars that get speeding tickets trying to use that horse power)

 

The 2V heads on my truck, cobbled with the stock cam doesn't have low end torque for ****, it wakes up good after 1700 RPM though.

 

FordFE
A. Get yourself a decent tune up
and
B. Get rid of that slush box and get a real transmission, one with gears.
My boat anchor 400, 500 cfm 2 bbl with only a double roller timing chain and cam gear upgrade kicks a$$. I give a lot of cars a hard time off the lights
78 1 ton dually, Dana 70 w 4.10, 4spd, 10,000 GVW 160" wheelbase, 8' x 12' dump box, 85 mph down hill top speed, 138,624 kilometers. New oil and filters every spring. Sparkplugs every 4 years, new rotor every 8 years. On it's second coil and distributor cap. Replaced the ECM last year out of boredom.

 

The engine is damn near new, and cap, rotor, plug wires, and sparkplugs are all new. Carburetor is in good tune as well. Straight up timing, re curved distributor, headers. And no, I will NOT get rid of the C6, if I wanted a manual I would have bought one. 4 speed's with granny gear first are no fun to drive in stop and go city traffic all day long (which is where I live, unfortunately) and no, not the big city either. The truck lacks low end torque from idle to 1400 RPM or so then it really starts to pick up, a cam swap will fix that. If I wanted to go fast, all I need to do is plant that pedal through the rubber floor mat. The C6 doesn't have an affect on mine with speed or acceleration.

 

The only time I put granny to work is when I'm over loaded and pointed uphill, stopped. I pay a severe red light tax my self. I've got it figured to be .50c loaded, .35c unloaded. Your truck probably came cammed for light work and highway use and as a result you've got lousy bottom end. Mine is set up to work hard and as for top end speed, hah!. Theres a reason I've got a smiling turtle on my mudflaps.
My point originally was that if you want to run around a circle track at full speed get the 4v heads. If you want real world common folk power, stick with the 2v head. You can get reasonable flow out of them but, if you want to use them for performance use mainly, go after market aluminum. Hopefully enough has been said on this and we can all get on with our lives none the smarter than we were when this all started.
This has been a funny but silly thread on misconceptions. Have a good day all.

 

The 351W H.O apparently came with an old marine grind style cam, and boats generally work in higher RPM, makes sense for my low end torque loss. with 69 CC combustion chambers and severely choked down exhaust ports, I'm surprised these engines run as good as they do.

If I ever pull those heads off, I'll open up the exhaust ports a little bit.

 

FordFE
I only came to this forum for info on doing some minor upgrades on my 89 351w fi, 5 speed grinder... This is staying in the 89 chassis, 1 ton dually, 133" wheelbase, to be used to pull a 32' 5th wheel Rv trailor... Oh yeah, it'll have a 78 f350 cab and custom dually truck box on it. And the first thread I come accross is this one. LOL, real painful.
It' good that your going to catch up to your headers by cleaning up your xports, if your doing it DiY be conservative and touch up your inports. I run a duall snorkle air box, the snorkle on the dr side has a short piece of drier vent tube clamped on and running to a stamped hole in my rad member. Cost $7 for ram air and xtra breathing.
My block is pre roller so I explorng my options. I staying efi and I'm trying to keep my budjet low enough so that I'll have the xtra $500 to order a 408 balanced kit from Scat. That way I'll have a bored 400 efi in my truck like I wanted in the first place... Find end of trail and make easist path there."Crazy Horse",.
Talking motors can be like talking politics, lots of yellin, screamin and b.s. flying around. Have a good day

 

HAHAHAHA ain't that the truth!

this thread sure was funny to read with all the misinformation on it.

 

Theres a freak 3 doors down and accross the alley that works on his truck by sitting in his cab drinking beer and doing meth. unfortunately sometimes he walks down and starts spewing delusions. I guess he thinks it's a 2way conversation when 1 person only responds" that's nice, uh huh, whatever and see ya later. Parts of this thread were reminding me of him.
Same level of mindlessness and thought. I'm going to give every one a break and blame this all on the 429 SOHC, modular and 3 valve head motors ford built.

 

Those people scare the crap out of me lol

 

Your problem isn't that cam. It's likely in how the cam is timed or the ignition timing is off (retarded too much) Or yet could be the carb.

 

The H.O engines don't have retarded cam timing, at least through the timing chain, it had a straight up timing set when I changed it to a double roller timing set, ignition timing is perfect and where it should be. It wouldn't surprise me if that Edeljunk 1406 is most of my problem.