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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

EGR delete up pipe install

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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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EGR delete up pipe install

It sucks.

I got it into place and decided to install the top bolts first. Well, I installed the wrong bolts, they were the longer ones and they weren't all-thread, so even if i used them and got longer bolts for the bottom part, they wouldn't be long enough. So I'd have to take them out and put in the right ones.

I reccomend doing this, now that I've done it already.

It took 15 minutes to get it lined up and the wrong ones in, that were to long. However lining it up would have been ten times more difficult with the shorter bolts, and once it was lined up I took out the long ones and swapped them in one at a time, so it remained lined up properly, which made it much easier to get the shorter ones in.

Now time to tackle the bottom ones.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:38 PM
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Did you get the metal gasket in it
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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Yes, that was also a challenge. Now I'm trying to get it tightened that I have the bottom bolts in. I really wish I could take off that heat shield, it makes life a lot more difficult.

But lining it up with the long bolts made things a lot easier.

I tried to tighten from the bottom, that didn't go over well as it kept slipping off even with the wobble extensions. I had a total of 8 extensions on it, to much wiggle, so now I'm trying to do it from the top with two ratchets. Is it critical to have it at a certain torque rating, I'm not sure I can get a torque ratchet in there to well.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Torque is not critical. I use a torque wrench for injectors, bottom end stuff like rod and main bearings, and headgaskets. Just don't break the bolts.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JaySVX
Yes, that was also a challenge. Now I'm trying to get it tightened that I have the bottom bolts in. I really wish I could take off that heat shield, it makes life a lot more difficult.

But lining it up with the long bolts made things a lot easier.

I tried to tighten from the bottom, that didn't go over well as it kept slipping off even with the wobble extensions. I had a total of 8 extensions on it, to much wiggle, so now I'm trying to do it from the top with two ratchets. Is it critical to have it at a certain torque rating, I'm not sure I can get a torque ratchet in there to well.


This sounds very framiliar LOL

On the Ground 10 Ratchet extensisons IIRC I taped each piece to take slop out

I broke down and had the Wife Hold the Top Wrench

It was a PIA

A Tech told me its easier to cut it free at Both Exhaust manafolds and pull it all out put new pipe in and slide it back one piece. I Got my *** Kicked trying to get that driver side undone So I did like you

An Air ratchet Helps


Whatever it takes Look at all the Money your savingin Labor
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Torque is not critical. I use a torque wrench for injectors, bottom end stuff like rod and main bearings, and headgaskets. Just don't break the bolts.

I think the most important thing with these exhaust Connections is that You Draw them together EVENLY

Especialt if you have that Sinister uppipe

The OEm Upppipe was better Design IMO
 
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