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Hey Cody: have you ruled out the harness yet? That's what happened to a friend -- unfortunately he was on the road and had to have a dealer change out #2 injector; he made it another 300 miles when it "went" again and another dealer actually dug deeper and found the real fault in the harness. That wasn't cheap either but it fixed the problem...
Hey, what are you using to do the contribution test with? I thought you were a Torque user, or have they put that in there now?! (or maybe your Ford tech friend did it...)
I would assume based on what I've read if it was harness problem I'd have a circuit high or circuit low code, not just the contribution/balance code by itself. I haven't done the contribution test no, just basing this off the code I have.
I would assume based on what I've read if it was harness problem I'd have a circuit high or circuit low code, not just the contribution/balance code by itself. I haven't done the contribution test no, just basing this off the code I have.
Tore into it last night. Thought about just letting Ford do it but I said screw it and decided to just do it in the driveway. I currently am down to the injectors and have the oil rail off. A couple questions -
Any big deal if the standpipe pulls out with the oil rail? Can I just lube the o-rings and put it back in with the rail?
Someone mentioned using a 19mm socket to push the injector connector through the rocker arm holder, is this the best way?
Before I take the hold down bolt out and take the injector out is there anything I need to be worried about losing?
Tore into it last night. Thought about just letting Ford do it but I said screw it and decided to just do it in the driveway. I currently am down to the injectors and have the oil rail off. A couple questions -
Any big deal if the standpipe pulls out with the oil rail? Can I just lube the o-rings and put it back in with the rail?
Someone mentioned using a 19mm socket to push the injector connector through the rocker arm holder, is this the best way?
Before I take the hold down bolt out and take the injector out is there anything I need to be worried about losing?
You'll have to unscrew the standpipe but can leave it in the oil rail if that's convenient. I've reused them several times, just make sure O-rings aren't nicked.
I don't remember if it's an 18 or 19 mm socket that releases the clips on the injector connector but it's one of those and it's really easy.
Nothing you need to be worried about losing. When you unscrew the hold down bolt, it stays in the injector clamp and they will both lift out as a unit. Make sure the copper washer is on the end of the injector. Sometimes they stay in the injector sleeve. Be sure you get all the oil out of the hold down bolt hole or you won't get a good torque on the injector. I clean the sleeve out also.
OH.....I usually cover the injector hole with an old sheet and a weight to hold it down then crank the motor over to get fuel out of the cylinder so it doesn't hydrolock. the fuel comes from the fuel rail in the head when you remove the injector. All it takes is a bump or two to clear the cylinder. MAKE SURE no one is in the way.
She lives again! Thanks to the guys here and Anthony (run6.0run) for all the help. Put in the new injector last night and put it all back together. Put the jumper pack on and cycled the key a bunch of times to get the fuel moved through the system. Started cranking it while watching the HPOP PSI and watched it slowly start climbing. As soon as it hit over 500 PSI it fired right up. No leaks and no problems found!
She lives again! Thanks to the guys here and Anthony (run6.0run) for all the help. Put in the new injector last night and put it all back together. Put the jumper pack on and cycled the key a bunch of times to get the fuel moved through the system. Started cranking it while watching the HPOP PSI and watched it slowly start climbing. As soon as it hit over 500 PSI it fired right up. No leaks and no problems found!
Not to mention it feels good saving yourself a bunch of money
Not to mention it feels good saving yourself a bunch of money
Definitely. I think it was like 2.9 hours of labor to do it meaning if I had taken it to the Ford dealer it would have been around 400 dollars. It was actually a fairly painless repair, just hot being out in the driveway.
Originally Posted by mustang_309
Congrats on getting her running and for a job well done.
Thanks! Being a technician I'm usually not afraid to just dive into something but I am not used to heavy diesel engine repair. I used to work for Ford but all I really did on the trucks was suspension and brake repair really so this is fairly new for me.
I'm at this point now too. Just put the new FICM in from Ed and new fuel injection harness and have the same idle as in the video. Getting P0277. Bad FICM must have taken the injector with it. Can a stuck spool valve cause an injector circuit high fault?