Hey guys... the new old dizzy i just got from ebay has about 1/16" endplay as measured from the collar that it runs on... am trying to post a pic... the overall measurement from bottom of gear to surface the case mounts on is about 5 " within spec... at least for an earlier model distr... is there a way to adjust or do i buy a new shaft? best. himmelberg

 

So here's the pic...

The endplay allowance on the older dist was .005 +or -.... does this big gap reflect new tolerances or a bad distributor?
best. himmelberg

 

Himmelberg, I'm no expert mechanic, but I think there's nothing wrong with your distributor. I looked at a couple I have here, and they all have that play.
It can't have a play from side to side. If you hold the distributor body and move the shaft from left to right it should have little or no play at all.

I was thinking... When the camshaft turns the distributor, it should throw the shaft up, so I don't think that play really matters. Unless it was a huge play.

Please, somebody correct me if I said something wrong...

Regards,
Lobo

PS If you needed a newer style distributor, why didn't you ask? I don't know what to do with so many of them... I need to get rid of some!

 

Hi Peter. Glad to see you hanging around again.

I only have the 1956 Shop Manual and I seem to recall you have a newer engine. If it's any help, here's the section for the 1956 V-8 distributor. If you have a different model distributor maybe Barry, Carl, or one of the other folks will have the correct info.



Note that the text says the shaft end play should be in the 0.022 - 0.030" range. It also says that if you need to replace the shaft you use the hole in the collar as a guide to drill a pin hole in the correct location through the new shaft. Are you thinking what I'm thinking?

How about this:

1. Take out the pin that goes through the collar and shaft
2. Put an 0.022" feeler gage between the collar and the bottom of the distributor body
3. Put a clamp on the shaft just below the collar - make sure it holds the collar tight against the feeler gage and doesn't let the shaft move
4. At this point, the pin hole through the collar and shaft won't line up exactly due to the extra end play you've removed
4. Drill the pin hole (through the collar and shaft) out to maybe, 1/32" or 1/16" diameter bigger size
5. Install an oversize pin to hold the shaft and collar at the location where they are clamped
6. When you remove the clamp, the collar should retain the 0.022" or so end play tolerance where it was clamped

This procedure might not be your first choice but I guess it depends on how much you've got invested in the distributor and whether you're willing to do a little hands on stuff. You'd have to be careful and go slow drilling out the pin hole through the collar and shaft. It shouldn't be hard to find a roll pin or a piece of steel wire that would fit the oversize hole. On the positive side, the cost is zero except for your time. If you messed up badly you could swallow hard and get a rebuilt distributor from JobLot Auto for $95.

If this was not too over-the-top just tell me to sit in the corner for a while. Sometimes I need a timeout according to my wife.

 

Himmelberg, sorry for asking this on your post, but...
George, what if you turn the shaft 90 degrees, and make a new hole, the same size of the original pin on the shaft?
Isn't easier or would the shaft get too weak?

Regards,
Lobo

 

George, Lobo... the 56 manual is just like my '54-55... but I'm guessing theres no difference dimension wise as I have an old distrib in a 1960 block. I thought that a new hole might weaken the shaft, Lobo, but I like George's enlarging idea. I have 30 bucks in the distributor... might as well give it a try. I won't do this until a few more guys check in... thanks. himmelberg

 

Peter,

The opinion I am about to render is non-50s specific. I have taken MANY dizzies out of perfectly good running vehicles with lots more end play than you just described. Side to side movement from a worn shaft or bushing is what will get you in trouble. (dwell flies all over the place). Jam it in there and hit the starter button. If your truck won't run right, it's not due to endplay you just described. Just my 2 cents.

 

Peter, I have to agree with Dewayne. Ive also looked at my spares, early and late types, and they all have the play.
And as Lobo mentioned, once they are meshed and loaded it should be a non issue.

A replacement for the new type is around $79 at NAPA.

 

Once again, you guys have given me the answer I need to hear... stick it in there and forget it. I guess the aerospace engineering has yet to wear off... and that tolerances on trucks are far more forgiving than fighter planes. Thanks. Best. Himmelberg

 

I was looking at George's diagram, and had a thought...
I think the reason why they were so strict about the endplay on earlier distributors is because of the rotor. On the earlier models, like the one pictured on George's post, it has a solid piece of metal running across it, while the newer model have a spring like metal. Because of that, on earlier models too much play could result in serious rotor and cap damage...

This shows the newer style rotor:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2419180195

Of course, I could be mistaken again... It's just a thought...

Regards,
Lobo

 

I see what you are talking about... there is a lot of room for upward thrust ... at least more than 1/16" before it would start shearing off contacts in the distributor cap. Thanks.

 

Peter

I'm not saying you should necessarily address it someday if you like, but your truck isn't going to run any different when you do. I would just install it and get my truck running, before I took it all apart and run into a complication. Sometimes pins and such can get siezed in dizzies, forcing you to handle them pretty rough if your shop isn't well equipped. I'm not saying that's the case with a Y-block distributor, but I would know the risk before I disassembled the only one I had handy. These guys can tell you how easy/difficult they are to pull apart.

 

´fenders, it's just like you said... I don't know if it's because I took several of those apart over the years that I find it easy to take apart, but they can be very tricky if they have a stuck pin or if the shaft is rusted...

I don't bother taking them apart anymore... I only take them apart now when the axle has a lot of side to side play.

By the way, I don't know if this problem only happens to Brazilian distributors, but if its as common as it's here, I would check the springs on the mechanical advance before installing it. They tend to get out of adjustment over the years, and it can be a pain sometimes... Especially when it's installed on the truck.
It took me a while to figure out I had a problem with those springs the first time...

I'm sure Carl can tell you about this a lot more than I possibly can... He has a lot more experience than I do.

Himmelberg, I think it would be easier just to install that distributor in there for now, and you can always buy another one later, rebuilt it, install it, and keep the other one as a spare....

Sorry for writing a little too much... It's just my opinon...

Regards,
Lobo

 

<b>I'm sure Carl can tell you about this a lot more than I possibly can... He has a lot more experience than I do.</b>

Just OLD, experience is a byproduct of the aging process.


I also have access to a SUN distributor machine which makes things a lot easier when trying to calibrate the springs to the cam, etc.

One thing I dont see mentioned here is the F600 distributor. With a mechanical tach drive they can be useful to those used to power shifting a SBC at 7 grand.

 

The old one is out... now it looks like a few more hours of cleaning before I install the new one. Am tossing end play to the wind and going with y'alls experience. Haven't powershifted since Freddijean was born 32 years ago when I had to get rid of the vette. Don't think I have the reflexes anymore. I'll let you know where to send one of your spares, Lobo. j/k. himmelberg