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What transmission flush?

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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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Ray Hamel13's Avatar
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What transmission flush?

2006 F-250 Powerstroke
I am sick of lying, cheating FORD DEALERS. At 32K I requested the Ford dealer to Power-Flush the trans and change the remote filter. As a trusting person I paid my $180 and went on my way. At 78K I pulled the receipt to check the last service mileage and found that the dealer dropped the pan changed the trans filter and added 7qts of oil and is now moved on. So, I went to a dealer in Midland, MI to have the job done correctly. After questioning the service write-up person if their maching was heated and what does the flush service entail this is the answer I got after he checked with the transmission mechanic:
1. We have two machinges and we do the service all the time.
2. Don't know for sure if they heat the fluid.
3. No the flush does not include the remote filter. If you want that changed, it will be $90 more which will bring the bill to $380.
4. We don't recomend changing that filter because the factory puts them on so tight that they usually break.

How do you find a reputable dealer. If anyone knows of a good dealer in the Mid-Michigan area, please let me know because I am at the end of my rope.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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My dealer charged me $160.00 for a complete hot flush and I then took it home and changed the external filter. The internal filter only needs changed during rebuilds. Stops trees and boulders. If no dealers in your area have a hot flush then I'd drain and refill, 8 qts, every 10,000 miles with filter. Use the drain plug, no need to drop the pan. The ext. filter holds an extra 8 oz. JMHO.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 06:34 PM
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Most shops/mechanics take the easy way to "change" or "flush" transmission fluid, pull the drain pug and only replace the fluid that they drain from the pan. A lot shops don't even have a transmission flush machine. I agree with the remote filter housing breaking, I've done it, nothing I could do to get it loose. If it breaks you have to replace the whole filter housing and its over $100 + labor to change it. I have seen a lot of talk about a heated flush machine, I don't think you will find one. I've googled it, I've asked a tool equipment salesman about it, I've never been able to find a heated machine.
Now I just looked on Alldata for transmission service for a 5R110 transmission. It says to warm the transmission to 150*-170* and connect the machine to the return line from the cooler. Nothing about a heated machine.
I've been in the automotive repair business and sold my shop but I keep most of the equipment. I have a T-Tech 500 flush machine, I've used this machine 100's of times on Ford vehicles and 5R110's, it works.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by craftsmangary
Most shops/mechanics take the easy way to "change" or "flush" transmission fluid, pull the drain pug and only replace the fluid that they drain from the pan. A lot shops don't even have a transmission flush machine. I agree with the remote filter housing breaking, I've done it, nothing I could do to get it loose. If it breaks you have to replace the whole filter housing and its over $100 + labor to change it. I have seen a lot of talk about a heated flush machine, I don't think you will find one. I've googled it, I've asked a tool equipment salesman about it, I've never been able to find a heated machine.
Now I just looked on Alldata for transmission service for a 5R110 transmission. It says to warm the transmission to 150*-170* and connect the machine to the return line from the cooler. Nothing about a heated machine.
I've been in the automotive repair business and sold my shop but I keep most of the equipment. I have a T-Tech 500 flush machine, I've used this machine 100's of times on Ford vehicles and 5R110's, it works.
If you have to replace it for that price it's still cheaper than a tranny. A lot of people think it needs torqued down. No, The O ring seals not the threads. Wrist tight once it bottoms is plenty tight.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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Heated line flushing machine for trans service, from Rotunda no less.
Rotunda line flusher - free eBooks download
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
If you have to replace it for that price it's still cheaper than a tranny. A lot of people think it needs torqued down. No, The O ring seals not the threads. Wrist tight once it bottoms is plenty tight.
^^ Yep, In my area they also corrode, I just changed a housing and all the lines week because the hex was rounded off and the lines were leaking because they were rusty, none of the snap to connect fitting would release, had to cut it all off, had to even replace the radiator. All the lines and housing from the dealer was $282
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Heated line flushing machine for trans service, from Rotunda no less.
Rotunda line flusher - free eBooks download
Thats a cooler flusher, a transmission rebuilder uses that to clean the cooler in radiator out, its not a flush machine for exchanging fluid.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by craftsmangary
Now I just looked on Alldata for transmission service for a 5R110 transmission. It says to warm the transmission to 150*-170* and connect the machine to the return line from the cooler. Nothing about a heated machine.
I've been in the automotive repair business and sold my shop but I keep most of the equipment. I have a T-Tech 500 flush machine, I've used this machine 100's of times on Ford vehicles and 5R110's, it works.
The nominal temperature for the thermostat is 165°F. If the trans is only at 150°F the thermostat will be closed. When the thermostat is closed 90% of the normal cooler flow is diverted back to the pan, not out to the cooler. That doesn't work well when trying to change the fluid. The trans MUST stay above 170°F in order to change the fluid instead of just mix old and new fluid.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
The nominal temperature for the thermostat is 165°F. If the trans is only at 150°F the thermostat will be closed. When the thermostat is closed 90% of the normal cooler flow is diverted back to the pan, not out to the cooler. That doesn't work well when trying to change the fluid. The trans MUST stay above 170°F in order to change the fluid instead of just mix old and new fluid.
I got those temps from Alldata, I have been doing these fluid exchanges just like it says to do in Alldata and once the thrmostat opens the fluid flows good. The next one I do I'm going to watch the fluid temp PID on my scanner and see what it is.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 06:13 AM
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Thanks' for the great response. I thought the service guy was BS'g about breaking the filter cap. So, his $90 price for the filter must be to cover the breakage because the filters are just under $19 @ Diesel Filters.com. I ordered two, and will take the chance of breaking the cap or not. In my mind, it would be like doing an engine oil change without changing the filter.
I love my Ford Truck but have lost all faith in Ford Motor Company and their engineering (or maybe accounting) strategy.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 07:08 AM
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Funny (not so) Story

I got a phone quote from my dealer and set up an appointment for a heated flush of the trans, soley based on the fact that the service rep on the phone assured me that they had a heated flush machine and knew how to use it.

When I picked up the truck, I walked around to the bay where they do the flushes and found the mechanic that did the work on my truck to thank him for a thouough job using the heated flush method. He looked at me funny and said: "What are you talking about? We don't have any heated flush machine. We just drain and refill."

Is that why they call them "stealerships" ?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ray Hamel13
I love my Ford Truck but have lost all faith in Ford Motor Company and their engineering (or maybe accounting) strategy.
I don't understand that. Can you explain a bit more?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 11:34 AM
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The remote filter comes loose easily with an impact wrench. Trying to do it by hand is what bends and breaks them. Impact pops them loose easy.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by cartmanea
The remote filter comes loose easily with an impact wrench. Trying to do it by hand is what bends and breaks them. Impact pops them loose easy.
We don't have corrosion problems here so luckily I've never had a problem just using a 3/8" ratchet with socket.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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We don't have much corrosion either, but mine was still seized up pretty good when I changed it. The impact made it easier, using a ratchet before that I was starting to bend the bracket.
 
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