hard starting when hot
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hard starting when hot
in my 87, when its running plain old #2 diesel, it requires a full 5 seconds of cranking to sputter to life when its hot.
but when the tank is a 50/50 mix of WMO and #2, it fires right up in half a second when hot.
this problem didn't exist before i blew the head gaskets in january, at which time i also installed a reman IP and new injectors
so what gives - is my reman IP junk, or is there something else ii should be looking into?
but when the tank is a 50/50 mix of WMO and #2, it fires right up in half a second when hot.
this problem didn't exist before i blew the head gaskets in january, at which time i also installed a reman IP and new injectors
so what gives - is my reman IP junk, or is there something else ii should be looking into?
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: North Bend
I have a similar hard-start-when-warm issue going on right now. Only happens when I part with my nose uphill, which suggests a return system drain-back issue to me. I haven't yet deleted that hose from the fuel filter to the #1 injector, so perhaps it would go away if I did that.
My IP is also remaned, but that was 40-50K ago... i sure hope it's not the IP.
As to the WMO making a difference, my first thought is that the heat makes diesel very thin, very fast. Maybe the WMO keeps it thick enough not to drain back? OR if it is an IP problem, keeps the diesel thick enough not to leak past the seals?
Try to do the same trick you've suggested to others here:
Before you start it warm next, pour some room-temp water over the IP to cool it off. If it fires right up then it's bad seals in the IP. If not, then return system, maybe injectors bleeding down, etc.
-Joshua
My IP is also remaned, but that was 40-50K ago... i sure hope it's not the IP.
As to the WMO making a difference, my first thought is that the heat makes diesel very thin, very fast. Maybe the WMO keeps it thick enough not to drain back? OR if it is an IP problem, keeps the diesel thick enough not to leak past the seals?
Try to do the same trick you've suggested to others here:
Before you start it warm next, pour some room-temp water over the IP to cool it off. If it fires right up then it's bad seals in the IP. If not, then return system, maybe injectors bleeding down, etc.
-Joshua
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keep in mind that my IDI is stuck in a van body, where pouring water over it is easier said than done, unlike a pickup. that said, i will try the water next time i shut down hot, when at home, with #2 running through it. that combination may or may not happen in the next couple days, but i'll probably end up using the garden hose, cause nothing else will be easy to get in there.
my experience with air intrusion or fuel leaking down is that it requires a lot more than 5 seconds of cranking to beat it.
the fuel viscosity theory does seem reasonable, and would seem to be the only logical explanation for the difference in how it responds to different fuels, i guess i have a reason to keep burning the oil
my experience with air intrusion or fuel leaking down is that it requires a lot more than 5 seconds of cranking to beat it.
the fuel viscosity theory does seem reasonable, and would seem to be the only logical explanation for the difference in how it responds to different fuels, i guess i have a reason to keep burning the oil
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From: North Bend
keep in mind that my IDI is stuck in a van body, where pouring water over it is easier said than done, unlike a pickup. that said, i will try the water next time i shut down hot, when at home, with #2 running through it. that combination may or may not happen in the next couple days, but i'll probably end up using the garden hose, cause nothing else will be easy to get in there.
my experience with air intrusion or fuel leaking down is that it requires a lot more than 5 seconds of cranking to beat it.
the fuel viscosity theory does seem reasonable, and would seem to be the only logical explanation for the difference in how it responds to different fuels, i guess i have a reason to keep burning the oil
my experience with air intrusion or fuel leaking down is that it requires a lot more than 5 seconds of cranking to beat it.
the fuel viscosity theory does seem reasonable, and would seem to be the only logical explanation for the difference in how it responds to different fuels, i guess i have a reason to keep burning the oil
As for air intrusion, I wasn't suggesting that's the issue. Certainly takes more than 5 seconds to beat that! Shoot I wish it was that easy.
Maybe my issue is different than yours. But if I park with my nose even a little uphill when the truck is nice and hot, she won't start. But if I hit my e-pump for 10-15 seconds, she sputters to life after a few seconds of cranking. No air issues that I can tell, but certainly SOME kind of issue.
Hmmmm, maybe the check-valve in the lift pump is bad? (or whatever keeps the fuel up there). Then with the hot and super thin fuel it takes a while to pump any pressure? Something for me to check I reckon.
(BTW I have a clear hose on the check valve off the fuel filter manifold, so I can see when the e-pump is pushing air out from anywhere upstream of the filter, and it never pushes any air out with this hot-start thing.)
LOL that sucks... been up to 90* out here where me and Josh are, which is pretty hot for this area, especially before the 5th of July!
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on mine, i haven't noticed any difference between parking uphill or downhill, at least not this year. before i had the e-pump, i remember having some concern with that, but that was a good long while ago, so i don't remember exactly.
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I know, I wasn't adding anything relevant to the discussion, heat's just a subject on mind right now.
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From: North Bend
Josh when you park it hot and go to re-start it, does your e-pump turn on? You mentioned in other posts that it is wired up to the glow plug relay, so it shouldn't come on when hot, but you also have a switch for it.
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it comes on for a second or less when hot, as do the plugs. i could run it manually, but don't.
but i will say the truck has been absolutely loving the current fuel mix i've been giving it! but i guess for any productive testing, i have to go back to plain old #2 for at least a few miles so i can see what it does with it.
but i will say the truck has been absolutely loving the current fuel mix i've been giving it! but i guess for any productive testing, i have to go back to plain old #2 for at least a few miles so i can see what it does with it.
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From: North Bend
Roger, just checking to see if your e-pump is priming the system before you go to start it and we are having the same problem.
Hey if the fuel mix works, run it! You can always get the truck hot on #2 later in the year...
Hey if the fuel mix works, run it! You can always get the truck hot on #2 later in the year...
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