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Bleeding clutch

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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #1  
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From: Wyotana
Bleeding clutch

I had to put a new rod in from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork. In order to do this I opened the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and pressed the rod shorter in order to get it to fit.
now I have ZERO pressure on the clutch petal so I assuming I let some air in the system. Do I bleed the system and the bottom slave cylinder or is there a place up top to bleed it?
I lent my manual to a friend and he is away for the weekend . I need the truck by Sunday AM for work
 
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 264WSM
I had to put a new rod in from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork. In order to do this I opened the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and pressed the rod shorter in order to get it to fit.
now I have ZERO pressure on the clutch petal so I assuming I let some air in the system. Do I bleed the system and the bottom slave cylinder or is there a place up top to bleed it?
I lent my manual to a friend and he is away for the weekend . I need the truck by Sunday AM for work
What year is the truck? 4 speed or 5?

You'll need to open the clutch mastercylinder reservoir and have a friend pump the clutch pedal just like bleeding the braked.

Use a 7/16? wrench to crack the bleeder screw (Drivers side of the transmission, above the clutch fluid line)

Just keep bleeding it til all the air bubbles are out (Use DOT 3 brake fluid and DO NOT let the reservoir go dry) and then tighten the bleeder screw and done.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 04:43 PM
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I'll look for the 7/16" bleeder screw. So far I've been doing it with the tiny allen screw on the slave cylinder. It is mushy but at least I can get it in gear.

Oh, '88 ZF-5
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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I just gravity bleed my hydraulic clutch systems and I've never had any problems getting all the air out.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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A lot of times they will self bleed if you can get it good enough to drive.
 
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