Okay, so i got the 91 ford nite. (rock on!)
The truck rocks.

(quick part here for people who dont like to read)
Hydrolic clutch bleed, is it that simple?
Big clutch play, how to fix?
(okay, thats what i'm asking here, read on if you wish)

I'm going to have to block off the EGR system. Cause its stalled 2 times on me. and sometimes really sluggish then picks up like a bat outa hell.

Anyways.
The dummy who sold it to me didn't mention the nice hole or crack in the clutch master cylinder. So, it had no break fluid in it.
I was wondering why the clutch was a lil squishy. It felt sorta fine, but it wasn't as stiff as i thought it should be.

Luckly i have the haynes manual, and read about the fixing of this.
I got air in my lines, THough the clutch works most of the time, it went out on me a mile from my home tonight. Which kinda sucked, but i leged it home.

So, is it as easy as the manual says?

It keeps talking about a slave cylinder though, which confuses me. Is the slave by the clutch, or on the firewall?

Basically says, take off the slave clyinder and disconect the line, stick the line in a bucket, and just pump fluid through it. Then fill up the thing and stick it on and plug in the cable quickly.

It talks about a secondary and a master cylinder, so thats the confuseing part, i'm sure its the same stupid thing.
I shall fix the leak problem with probably a solder iron or something else. NO problems there.


My second question, cause i dont understand the book well. I need to get the big 6 inches of play outa my clutch. Way to friggen much play. book says 1-2 inches of play.
It talks about poping the thing out and adjusting this and that. its like. uhh. how is that supposto pop out and such.

 

Hello Talyn,
First off we need to know where what kind of slave cylinder you have; The internal have the slave cylinder around the input shaft of the tranny. (You have to remove the tranny to get to it) The external type is outside of the tranny. The leaking clutch master cylinder does not help out at all. Replace that (clutch master cylinder) to start with and bleed the slave cylinder. (Be sure to bleed it good because it takes alot of pumping to get the air out. I have found out to have about one inch of freeplay in the clutch is right. Good luck iron eddie

 

OH, so there are 2 friggen cylinders, this blows.

What does the second one do then?

I find it odd though that the clutch works fine, then all of a sudden goes out from downshifting or some random thing.
THis is after the clutch is working really stiff like it should be working.
Makes me want a mechanical one almost.

Gonna price out the primary clutch cylinder tommarow+ line.
Should i get the slave too?
The book never explains what these stupid things do. so.

 

Sounds like you're a little lost. The master cylinder, generally on the firewall, converts mechanical pressure to hydraulic pressure. That is, you push a stream of hydraulic fluid out of the cylinder when you push the clutch pedal. The fluid is carried by lines (hoses or tubing) to the slave cylinder, which is filled by the fluid you pushed out with the clutch pedal. This is the same principle as your brakes. The fluid in the slave cylinder converts hydraulic to mechanical pressure, extends a piston, and pushes the pressure plate away from the clutch, disengaging it.

Next question, why hydraulic?
1. You can use mechnical advantage, like a lever, so you can use a stiffer pressure plate.

2. You can route the power, the lines, around obstructions easily, they're flexible. To get levers and rods arranged around the engine compartment so as to be usable is much more difficult than bending a tube.

3. As your clutch plate wears, the hydraulic system automatically adjusts so you don't have to.

If either cylinder (cylinder, seal, or piston) leaks, the pressure and fluid squirt out and your clutch stays clutched. Powershift anyone?

 

yea, i was really cuirious what the slave cylinder did.

Now i gotta figure out if the slave is bad or not. Looseing my clutch sucks, The tranny been worn quite a bit and not rebuilt after the 140k miles on it, and i dont like to slam it unless i absoultly have too.

Hopefully my slave is on the outside, i dont want to pay somebody to fix that for me. Cause i honstly dont want to drop the tranny.

Yea, your right about the hydrolic being easier.
THe fact that my cluch dosn't like to comeback when it goes out probably means its the slave cylinder.

now time to call my buddie at autozone and have him price a new one for me. ANd a new master clutch cylinder too. cause its got a crack in the reservoir. It holds fluid, but that part might be bad too.

should i get the new clutch piston rod thing for that also? or does it come with?

Sure gonna suck working under there, its tight spot with no tilt stearing.

 

The new master should include the reservoir and piston. Should be a matter of taking the old one off, putting the new on, fluid, bleed and run. You should be able to see moisture on the outside of the slave, assuming yours is on the outside, if it is bad. You have to replace the master under any circumstance, they are cast and irreparable. if you don't see fluid on the slave, for whatever reason (inside or outside), plan on just doing the master. Generally, they are pretty durable.

 

Yea, master definatly needs replaceing.
60 dollars at auto zone, + discount. I'm sure i can do that myself maybe.

Now .. what about the line for it?
Do i have to hook that up to the slave?
GOnna suck if the slave is on the inside then.. or would it hook to he out of the case?

 

The line is the one on the master cylinder. Most likely a piece of steel tubing. Be careful to use a good wrench, the fitting is tight and made of stainless, which is soft. If you have trouble getting it off, consider getting a tubing wrench , which looks like a box end missing a little piece. Occasionally, you can use vise grips, but they really make a mess. Try to not allow any fluid to spill out out of the line, so as to not allow any air in. If the master is all you replace, you shouldn't have to worry bleeding, air rises.Use clean brake fluid.
Good luck.

 

Not the master cylinder.
the clutch master cylinder silly.

 

This is an interesting thread..

I need to replace my Clutch master cylinder on my 1988 F250. How do I get off the hydraulic plactic line off. This hooks directly into the Plastic master cylinder. Is ther a special tool?

Anyone out there know how to disconnet this line that goes from the Master to the slave?


thanks

Runner