WOOD FLATBED BUILD - 3D MODEL AND CONSTRUCTION PLANS
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
Ray - regarding the elevated fuel filler, you might need to be conscious of how full the tank & neck get.
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ray - regarding the elevated fuel filler, you might need to be conscious of how full the tank & neck get.
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm looking at the through view and as a carpenter I would suggest a vertical at each side of the toolbox (inside) that goes from just under the headache rack down to the bottom of the deck skirt.
This could be glued and screwed (or bolted) to both the side and the front crossbrace (joist)
Adding a lot of strength and support.
Joist hangers are fine for what they are, but they are likely to fail in tension and shear if you try to use them dynamically.
The truck (and bed) are going to flex constantly, unlike a house.
You're also going to have to seal the cross grain arch at the wheels.
This will dry out faster than the rest of the bed and check.
That split will travel down the length of the side.
I would suggest a saturating coat of marine epoxy.
Keep brushing it on to the end grain of the cut until it remains wet.
Once it hardens add another coat.
When it soaks into the end grain it fills the cells and binds the fibers together.
When it hardens in place there are no pores for water to soak into.
This could be glued and screwed (or bolted) to both the side and the front crossbrace (joist)
Adding a lot of strength and support.
Joist hangers are fine for what they are, but they are likely to fail in tension and shear if you try to use them dynamically.
The truck (and bed) are going to flex constantly, unlike a house.
You're also going to have to seal the cross grain arch at the wheels.
This will dry out faster than the rest of the bed and check.
That split will travel down the length of the side.
I would suggest a saturating coat of marine epoxy.
Keep brushing it on to the end grain of the cut until it remains wet.
Once it hardens add another coat.
When it soaks into the end grain it fills the cells and binds the fibers together.
When it hardens in place there are no pores for water to soak into.
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Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Ray - regarding the elevated fuel filler, you might need to be conscious of how full the tank & neck get.
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
Because the new filler will be a lot higher than the vent in the top of the tank, gas in the filler neck could cause flooding forward to the charcoal canister.
I think it's the older Chilton manual that gives a good description of the evap system for the tanks; there is an intentional cavity designed in the top of the tank that is supposed to stay full of air.
I just can't remember the details of why - maybe also to prevent flooding the charcoal canister.
The high neck is going to make fill-ups a pleasure!
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
I'm looking at the through view and as a carpenter I would suggest a vertical at each side of the toolbox (inside) that goes from just under the headache rack down to the bottom of the deck skirt.
This could be glued and screwed (or bolted) to both the side and the front crossbrace (joist)
Adding a lot of strength and support.
Joist hangers are fine for what they are, but they are likely to fail in tension and shear if you try to use them dynamically.
The truck (and bed) are going to flex constantly, unlike a house.
...............................
You're also going to have to seal the cross grain arch at the wheels.
This will dry out faster than the rest of the bed and check.
That split will travel down the length of the side.
I would suggest a saturating coat of marine epoxy.
Keep brushing it on to the end grain of the cut until it remains wet.
Once it hardens add another coat.
When it soaks into the end grain it fills the cells and binds the fibers together.
When it hardens in place there are no pores for water to soak into.
This could be glued and screwed (or bolted) to both the side and the front crossbrace (joist)
Adding a lot of strength and support.
Joist hangers are fine for what they are, but they are likely to fail in tension and shear if you try to use them dynamically.
The truck (and bed) are going to flex constantly, unlike a house.
...............................
You're also going to have to seal the cross grain arch at the wheels.
This will dry out faster than the rest of the bed and check.
That split will travel down the length of the side.
I would suggest a saturating coat of marine epoxy.
Keep brushing it on to the end grain of the cut until it remains wet.
Once it hardens add another coat.
When it soaks into the end grain it fills the cells and binds the fibers together.
When it hardens in place there are no pores for water to soak into.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Yes.
Even wider (2x6?) might be better from a standpoint of surface area and having the fasteners separated across the grain.
If you made it the full width you could eliminate the 'frame' inside, and wouldn't have to block it out below.
Notch the deck board around it and it will tie both the box to the deck frame and the front and side of the box, as well as the front and side of the deck together.
Side grain to side grain is a much stronger joint than butts.
Urethane construction cement like PL Premium in a caulk tube would set up so you couldn't get that apart with a sledgehammer.
Ray.
I'm envious of your CAD abilities.
Just an analog guy in a digital world I suppose...
My 2c
Even wider (2x6?) might be better from a standpoint of surface area and having the fasteners separated across the grain.
If you made it the full width you could eliminate the 'frame' inside, and wouldn't have to block it out below.
Notch the deck board around it and it will tie both the box to the deck frame and the front and side of the box, as well as the front and side of the deck together.
Side grain to side grain is a much stronger joint than butts.
Urethane construction cement like PL Premium in a caulk tube would set up so you couldn't get that apart with a sledgehammer.
Ray.
I'm envious of your CAD abilities.
Just an analog guy in a digital world I suppose...
My 2c
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,950
Likes: 2,718
From: Virginia
The plastic fitting on top of the fuel tank has a roll-over valve incorporated in it with a little metal ball inside. It's supposed to block the fuel from running out of the vent in case a accident occurs and the truck turns over.
Having said that, I am assuming it is a metal ball, and I guess in that case it's not going to float up and block the vent if you over fill it. If it is metal, it must be gravity operation only unless someone knows different.
Having said that, I am assuming it is a metal ball, and I guess in that case it's not going to float up and block the vent if you over fill it. If it is metal, it must be gravity operation only unless someone knows different.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Yes.
Even wider (2x6?) might be better from a standpoint of surface area and having the fasteners separated across the grain.
If you made it the full width you could eliminate the 'frame' inside, and wouldn't have to block it out below.
Notch the deck board around it and it will tie both the box to the deck frame and the front and side of the box, as well as the front and side of the deck together.
Side grain to side grain is a much stronger joint than butts.
Urethane construction cement like PL Premium in a caulk tube would set up so you couldn't get that apart with a sledgehammer.
Ray.
I'm envious of your CAD abilities.
Just an analog guy in a digital world I suppose...
My 2c
Even wider (2x6?) might be better from a standpoint of surface area and having the fasteners separated across the grain.
If you made it the full width you could eliminate the 'frame' inside, and wouldn't have to block it out below.
Notch the deck board around it and it will tie both the box to the deck frame and the front and side of the box, as well as the front and side of the deck together.
Side grain to side grain is a much stronger joint than butts.
Urethane construction cement like PL Premium in a caulk tube would set up so you couldn't get that apart with a sledgehammer.
Ray.
I'm envious of your CAD abilities.
Just an analog guy in a digital world I suppose...
My 2c
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
The plastic fitting on top of the fuel tank has a roll-over valve incorporated in it with a little metal ball inside. It's supposed to block the fuel from running out of the vent in case a accident occurs and the truck turns over.
Having said that, I am assuming it is a metal ball, and I guess in that case it's not going to float up and block the vent if you over fill it. If it is metal, it must be gravity operation only unless someone knows different.
Having said that, I am assuming it is a metal ball, and I guess in that case it's not going to float up and block the vent if you over fill it. If it is metal, it must be gravity operation only unless someone knows different.
