Fault codes, chasing problems.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Kremmling, Colorado
Fault codes, chasing problems.
So blew a seal in the turbo. Rebuilt it.
Still running weird. Blowing more black smoke than blue now.
My brother ran a test on it twice and got two codes. I cannot remember the code # but I remember what they were.
1st was a cylinder 6 contribution fault code and the second was a cylinder 8 contribution fault code.
Can someone explain what these are and what possibly we can to do try and fix? Would it be bad injectors? My brother doesn't know much at all about Fords. He was a Dodge mechanic and hasn't worked on Ford Diesels.
Still running weird. Blowing more black smoke than blue now.
My brother ran a test on it twice and got two codes. I cannot remember the code # but I remember what they were.
1st was a cylinder 6 contribution fault code and the second was a cylinder 8 contribution fault code.
Can someone explain what these are and what possibly we can to do try and fix? Would it be bad injectors? My brother doesn't know much at all about Fords. He was a Dodge mechanic and hasn't worked on Ford Diesels.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
So, slow to build boost? Any problems with overall boost pressure?
Truck missing at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT?
Motor vibrating while you stare at it at idle? Can feel it at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT? How much more than normal? How much does it vibrate normally?
Next tell us about it's maintenance history, mods, and any other background info that might be useful.
Truck missing at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT?
Motor vibrating while you stare at it at idle? Can feel it at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT? How much more than normal? How much does it vibrate normally?
Next tell us about it's maintenance history, mods, and any other background info that might be useful.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 534
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From: Kremmling, Colorado
So, slow to build boost? Any problems with overall boost pressure?
Slow, then builds up fast.
Truck missing at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT?
Yes for all three.
Motor vibrating while you stare at it at idle? Can feel it at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT? How much more than normal? How much does it vibrate normally?
Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Way more than normal. Feels like I have an unblanced tire but I know I don't.
Next tell us about it's maintenance history, mods, and any other background info that might be useful.
Slow, then builds up fast.
Truck missing at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT?
Yes for all three.
Motor vibrating while you stare at it at idle? Can feel it at idle? While normal driving? Under load? WOT? How much more than normal? How much does it vibrate normally?
Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Way more than normal. Feels like I have an unblanced tire but I know I don't.
Next tell us about it's maintenance history, mods, and any other background info that might be useful.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: Kremmling, Colorado
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
- I suspect the collector guide pin never got lined up on the back of the turbo.
- Pull 42-pin connector (over the D-side valve cover) and ohm out all solenoids.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 534
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From: Kremmling, Colorado
Is that a way to test the injectors? My brother put his scanner on it and ran a test on them and they all passed the buzz test (what he called it) but he said that doesn't mean much. They could still be bad.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
Passenger side voltage common (odd-numbered injectors) and Driver side. About 3 ohms each, but it's important they all match. This tests the solenoid coils and the connections to them from the 42-pin connector through the UVCHs.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Kremmling, Colorado
So do those numbers any way correlate with the "buzz test" that the Snap On scanner does?
I will try to do a reading today when I get home.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
The buzz test activates (buzzes) all solenoids at the same time at first, then it activates one at a time, in numbered sequence. This confirms the IDM is working, there is electrical connection to each solenoid, each solenoid coil pulls, and the solenoid plates lift/fall. It does not confirm (with certainty) the quality of the electrical connections, the coils, the solenoid plate is properly secured to the poppet valve, or that the clearance is accurate. Ohming out the 42-pin connector just assures all the electrical connections and coils are within spec... that's it. Fortunately, this is easy to test... and is a very common failure when things go-a-missin'.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Kremmling, Colorado
The buzz test activates (buzzes) all solenoids at the same time at first, then it activates one at a time, in numbered sequence. This confirms the IDM is working, there is electrical connection to each solenoid, each solenoid coil pulls, and the solenoid plates lift/fall. It does not confirm (with certainty) the quality of the electrical connections, the coils, the solenoid plate is properly secured to the poppet valve, or that the clearance is accurate. Ohming out the 42-pin connector just assures all the electrical connections and coils are within spec... that's it. Fortunately, this is easy to test... and is a very common failure when things go-a-missin'.
