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From your posts, I assume you don't have a CEL or any hard codes, correct?
Normally after working on the turbo and having boost issues I would check all 6 boots on the CAC plumbing as well as the baby's butt (collector) on the back of the turbo.
The rough running at all speeds sounds more like an injector issue. The first thing to do is get the bully dog off there and run the truck stock to see what happens. Sometimes things can be just a bad chip, more often, the chip makes the symptoms more pronounced or different, so we need to know how things act in the stock setting.
From your posts, I assume you don't have a CEL or any hard codes, correct?
Normally after working on the turbo and having boost issues I would check all 6 boots on the CAC plumbing as well as the baby's butt (collector) on the back of the turbo.
The rough running at all speeds sounds more like an injector issue. The first thing to do is get the bully dog off there and run the truck stock to see what happens. Sometimes things can be just a bad chip, more often, the chip makes the symptoms more pronounced or different, so we need to know how things act in the stock setting.
No hard codes. Collector looks tight. I know it was when I managed to get the clamp slipped around it and tightened. I did run it in stock mode. same symptoms.
So the next step is to pull the covers and take out the fuel and oil plugs, then pull the injectors. Is there a method to test/check the injector to know if it's bad or good, mechanically?
My brother says that even if the thing ohms out right it doesn't mean that it is functioning mechanically.
I did have to replace the GPs a month ago and it was the same two cylinders that were bad.
Usually you can diagnose a mechanical injector issue by doing a buzz test when cold and a cold start with the valve covers off and watching the oil discharge from each injector.
Unless you have a test bench, are willing to take the injectors all the way apart, and know what you're looking at, then you won't be able to tell anything by pulling the injectors unless you stumble upon a blown o-ring.
Usually you can diagnose a mechanical injector issue by doing a buzz test when cold and a cold start with the valve covers off and watching the oil discharge from each injector.
Unless you have a test bench, are willing to take the injectors all the way apart, and know what you're looking at, then you won't be able to tell anything by pulling the injectors unless you stumble upon a blown o-ring.
Well, guess I'm popping them out this weekend and having them checked. But looks like Clay at Riffraff has some great prices on re-mans.
So we got the #8 and #6 injectors out. One looks fairly clean while the other is pretty caked and gummed with oil. Is there a way to physically inspect them. I'm kinda leaning towards just replacing them since they are over 10 years old. Riffraff has some good prices on remans. I'll try to snap a couple pics
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