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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

flatbed conversion

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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 05:32 PM
  #1  
bikeymikey's Avatar
bikeymikey
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From: The Lost Coast
flatbed conversion

Hey all,

It's been a while, but I'm still plugging away.
I want to do a flatbed conversion for my rig in the sig. Right now it's got a long bed. I found a 85 f250 with a flatbed, took a bunch of measurements and it seems like the flatbed should bolt right up to where the bed bolts to the frame. Now I've read in other threads some members suggesting not to bolt the flatbed to the top of the frame rails but rather to the sides, which sounds good to me.

Once the pickup bed is off, I want to go through the fuel tanks, pumps (all three), brake lines, the works. You know, 'cause this truck's supposed to take us all the way down to Argentina. I know this is a super vague question, but I'd like to find out what are the pitfalls I need to avoid, what tools and parts should I expect to need, etc.

The reason for the fuel system overhaul, besides being way easier when the bed is off, is when I'm using the rear tank the gauge shows full (and sometimes waaay more than full), but the truck dies. And when I go to fill it up, it shuts off the nozzle at the station after maybe 2 gallons.

And I want to do the brake lines for s---s and giggles.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #2  
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when I worked for oj watson we used three brackets per side that bolt to the sides of the frame. and with the front bracket at an angle, supposably because it makes crashes less dangerous.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #3  
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Daniel5.0
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From: Carthage, MO
I think I'd suggest 3" channel for your brackets, laid "flat" against the frame. That will give it some sideways stability. The '95 in my sig has had a flatbed on it for several years now and that's how we mounted it. It gets rough farm use and it's doing just fine.

Wire brush all rust and dirt and paint the frame black. Depending on the condition, you may want to replace wiring harnesses. And if you weren't already planning on it, put LED tail lights on it. The flatbeds seem to rattle more and that's hard on incandescent filaments.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #4  
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bikeymikey
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From: The Lost Coast
thanks all, for your responses.

so i've found a bed, off a 85 250. the way the bed is built requires me to mount it to the top of the frame. i'm concerned that the flatbed (with our alaskan camper mounted on top of it) won't allow the frame to flex as much as the original pickup box.
i've read that people install polyurethane bushings to allow for some give. some others have clamed that valve springs work well.
my questions are:
-which is better? poly bushings or valve springs?
-do i use these on all 6 mounting points?

of course i'll be using grade 8 bolts, nutz and washers.

thanks,
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #5  
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bikeymikey
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From: The Lost Coast
Nobody knows?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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never heard of using valve springs. but I have never used poly bushings either, always set it right onto the frame and never saw a problem from it.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #7  
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bikeymikey
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From: The Lost Coast
i failed to mention that i will probably be doing some lightweight off roading (as much as is allowed by my crew cab long bed).
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 03:54 AM
  #8  
tjc transport's Avatar
tjc transport
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mount solid to the frame. any give in the mounts will relate to movement, and any movement between body and frame is bad.
 
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