Long bed to Short bed conversion
I recently read an articl (last night) in Custom Classic Trucks on the procedure, but they only mention the frame chop and say that they will buy a new bed.
I don't want to spend the money to buy a whole new bed. Besides when I say short I mean I want my 50's bed to be a few inches longer than the fenders. Say about 5'2". Might as well, right?
I realize that shortening the frame is not exactly bodywork, but if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. I plan to have a professional welder atleast help me with the frame.
John
I don't have your answer, but you may want to post this in the '48 to '60 Truck Forum also. Most of the old truck guru's don't venture this far down.
I shortened the 69 frame that I am mounting a 55 body on. It was originally a F-100 long bed frame. I cut the frame in front of the rear tires on the flattest section and took out somewhere in the neighborhood of 17"(Not for sure, its been awhile). I made the new wheel base 110 3/4" to better center the front tires in the fenders, which is what most recommend when doing an IFS upgrade.
I used a reciprocating saw with a good metal blade instead of a torch. It made for a much more accurate cut especially when it needed to be right. I then cut a steel plate from 1/2" stock and plated the inside frame rail after it was re-welded, overlapping the welds and then bolted with (8) 3/4" grade 8 bolts (per side).
I have since read that some people will make the frame cut at an angle to give more area when re-welding and some people adivse in using std. bolts instead of the grade 8 as the 'shear' strength on the grade 8 bolts is less than std. bolts?
I took the 'chopped' sections of rail out and they were identical in length from the left to the right side, so I feel that I shouldn't have an alignment problems.
Good luck.
Thanks for the insight. As far as welding the backing plate and recipricating saw, that is pretty much what I was thinking I would do. I had not thought about bolting the plate as well. I can see where that would help add some strength.
The CCT article I mentioned showed them cutting at an angle. I didn't really question why, but more surface are makes sense.
I'm glad to hear that someone else has undertaken such a chore and been successful.
You made me remember that welding the plates was not advised, the article I read stated that bolting was the preferred method. They said that in their experiances welding ridged plates to more flexible frames actually contributed in creating points for stress cracks at those welds.
I would have to cut the frame rail behind the rear wheels to get the total shortening affect that I want, but that doesn't shorten the wheel base. A lot of long beds, if not all, are longer infront of and behind the wheels than the short beds of the same model and year.
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
That's a good point about not welding the backing plate if it's stronger stuff than the frame. The article I mentioned said that they bought some frame backing plates that were the same thickness and everything but had been made a little smaller than the frame to fit inside. The problem is this kit was made for a C***y and I don't know if they make it for Fords.
How is your's holding up? Any problems? I want to do it right.
Has anybody done customizing such as an extended cab, chopped top or the like where you made a cut and then welded the sections back together? Is there any obvious or not so obvious rules I should keep in mind when butchering the sheet metal that make it easier to put it back together? I imagine that putting it back together will be the same as putting a patch panel in. (spot weld and take time to prevent warping, grind and fill the welds)
I spoke with a brother in law who is a mechanic for the state highway dept. and he told me the bolt and plating was standard practice with frame damage repairs in big rigs. So I figure if it will keep them together, I shouldn't have a problem.
I have done some small panel welding with a MIG and had pretty good luck with it. Best if the parts are butt-welded with precise cutting. Tack welding, alternating from end to end and then repeating for short welds, skipping around the panel.
Good luck with yours.









