My 5th wheel has generator prep for a LP generator. I have the pre-wire and the box inside the 5er for hours and such.

So...I found this one:


http://cumminsonan.com/www/html/Comm...ets/a-1426.pdf

I think this would be sufficient to run two AC's if needed or one and TV/Mico ect.

Obviously I would need to do the cut out for exhaust and LP hookup.

I have box sitting in the front of 5er already where it is suppose to go.

So what do you think?

 

You cannot hardly go wrong with Onan. That is what Rv manufactures mostly put in Rv's with gensets. 6.5k is the LP version, should do you just fine running 2 airs. The only down side to LP is the genset will suck the life out of the propane tanks. To bad you cannot go diesel. There was and is a thread running on another RV board just to that affect.

 

I suppose I could go diesel..

 

If I went either diesel or gas I would need a place for fuel. That is the one item I don't have.

I suppose that I could carry a tank and then just hook up to it with a quick disconnect.

 

You can actually go smaller if all you want to do is carry two ACs, but what you have in mind is fine. I don't do much work on LP gensets as they are not very common, but they do indeed drink LP like it is going out of style. On the gasoline models, it seems like I have to replace the fuel pump on nearly every one on the lot.

I think you will find yourself filling with propane more often than you might expect. I had one in one of our diesel motorhomes and I ended up stopping for propane more often than I did diesel! Of course, with a motorhome, in hot weather, the genset is on most of the time on the road.

Not much to the install since your camper is generator ready.

Steve

 

I doubt you could justify the weight or cost of a Quiet Diesel from Onan, those sucker are heavy.

Steve

 

Would be easier to carry another bottle of propane then all that then.

 

Scott,

I think there are a couple of ways to approach this.

First of all, consider how you intend to use your rig. Will you really have to have both AC running very often? Many fivers do quite well with only one AC running, unless they are at the beach and so forth. Being aware of usage is the first step.

Second, do you need a 7.0 genset? Again anticipate your usage. If you could get by with a smaller genset, your LP need would be less.

Third, LP is available almost everywhere RVers travel, unless your travels will take you well off the beaten course. That being the case, panning your fills should take care of things.

I would not buy a supplemental tank until after I tried the initial set-up. I suspect you will find it is not necessary. Folks have been using these units for year and done just fine.

Just my thoughts,

Steve

 

The rule of thumb we have used on another RV forum is that it takes about a 3600 watt gen set to start an a/c and to kick in the compressor without tripping breakers. In constant running state, less then 3000 watts - until the compressor kicks in again. Now, you say that your trailer is prewired - but for what output gen set. Possibly you will be wire gauge limited as to what size you can install without a problem. Also - 300 pounds for that Onan plus the weight of whatever peripherals are needed might put you close to pin max weight or even trailer chassis max

 

Well I could get buy with a 4K. I have two portable 2K's that I slave together to make the 4K. I haul them around. A pain in the butt to take them out, cable them together. I can only run one AC with them.

Good point on the wiring. I will have to check that again and see what it was designed for.

 

Motorhomes have used 5 KW gensets for years to run two ACs without a problem, some probably still do. I used to carry a 2.8 Yamaha genset on my service truck and it was rare that it could not pop off an AC unit. Some of them will even start on the 2000 I carry on the truck now. In my experience nearly every genset will put out more than its rating for at least a short period of time.

The start amp draw varies between units, but it is only for a split second and unless you set your meter on "hold max" it is so fast you may not be able to read the rise and fall in many cases. It is rare a breaker will not handle the brief surge.

You can actually calculate all this stuff by adding up the amp draw of what you are going to run, or if you have a clamp meter or one of the boxes you put on at the shoreline plug to guard against high/low voltage, you can simply read your loads and design around them.

I am betting with two ACs your rig has a 50 amp transfer switch as it has a 50 amp shoreline right? The transfer switch has to carry that load, same as it does with the genset.

The reason so many folks with fivers carry two Hondas or some other brand of portables is they are readily available, relatively cheap, super dependable, there are lots of service facilities that work on them and they are easy on fuel, but having a built-in is sure a lot less bother and not much worry about having them stolen. If it were mine, I'd do the built-in for simplicity.

Steve

 

Exactly, a built in will be so much less of a hasle. I just looked up online as I am at work right now..it does not indicated anything about the gen prep wiring.

It is 50 amp service.

Yes I can do the clamp meter to get a real feel for each item to run.

KZ Recreational Vehicles: StoneRidge 37RB

 

I really don't think you will have a problem. I see the setup you are proposing all the time. Again, anything is possible, but I don't think you need to reinvent the wheel here.

You have a clamp meter? Good for you!!!! Number one tool worth having for RVers who do their own work in my book.

 

Yes, I think 5K is sufficient. I can always shut down the main AC at night to run the bedroom one. Inside the area for the generator there is the wiring and a control box.

I will have to open it up but I assume that is where the hard wiring is for it.

then just figure out the spot for exhaust and to run the LP line out of to connect under the frame. The nipple is already there for the lp connection. Just need to tap into it.

 

Man, this is like a no-brainer! Exhaust is not a major issue. As you know, you just do not want it exiting under a slide or any point where exhaust can enter your RV and you will need dedicated lead from your battery to turn it over.

The transfer switch will have a basic wiring diagram inside the cover and I do not think you will have any trouble following it as everything is spelled out. It is just a four-wire black, red, white, green diagram with labels for the source and output sides. Your shoreline should already be tied to one set of terminals. Your generator will become your priority source, once it is tied in.

Sizing is kind of up to you. Again, I think the LP issue is a just a matter of how much you want to fill your tanks, I would not let it be a deterrent in choosing a size. Lots of folks with fivers tie those two Honda 2000s together and are in heaven. Others are power hungry and gotta have a 7KW. No right or wrong there.