Not to be too obvious but are you sure that your frame is straight. the last time I had major issues, and had to go back to steps AB&C it turned out that my frame had been tweaked. I was at the point of deciding wether to just ignore the off kilter stance or correct the issue when It sort of sorted itself out. On a side note rolling them eliminates the need to correct minor stance issues

 

Yep, I've been wondering about the frame as well. Do you know if there is an easy way to measure/check the frame with the body and tub on?

Sounds like you took the hard route to fix your frame problems!

 

Find a level piece of pavement, beg / borrow or buy 4 fairly tall jack stands, and set the truck on the stands. Set the truck so that the frame length behind the cab is level with the ground and with itself, then check your corners with a tape. I'll keep looking, but someone posted on the forum what the stock height's were front to rear so you can check to see that yours is the same.

Some collsion repair centers have frame racks which check for and can fix bent frames. Mine was an obvious two inches out on the DS front to the PS back. Then I rolled it so, I never checked on prices. I've also never paid any attention to if the "straightened" frames are as strong as original, or if there's a tendency to re-warp.

 

sorry should have proof read a bit. The measurements between your vehicle and the stock ones won't be the same, but the variance between the front end and the rear end should be the same.

 

OK, I'm still a little unsure.

So I take my four jack stands (I've got four so I'm right there) and put them under the chassis, at which points though?

I'm thinking if I put two at the differential and two at the front beams then measure the corners to ground I'll see any discrepancy at either end of the chassis.

My jack stands are the type that have set heights ie. a series of holes that you put the pins in, not the ratchet type that you can adjust the height up and down with so is it a matter of packing the top of the jack stand to get the chassis level with the ground? Is that what you're meaning?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm just trying to get my head around what you're saying.

 

put them under the frame, 2 as close to the front of the cab as you can and still be balanced. The other 2 just in front of the rear tires. I jacked mine up so that I could get the tires off of the ground, and then leveled it so that the flat portion of the frame behind the cab was level to the ground and side to side, then measure your corners from the ground. The front two and rear two should be the same. I still haven't been able to locate the page with the frame dimensions on it, but I'm still looking.

 

DJM were never made to be bent, so don't do it, both of the two sets of DJM dropped beams that I installed with new springs ended up with lots of posative camber, I did what you are doing cut coils untill you get close and live with it. about 2 full coils should do it. new coils have the drivers side about 1/2 in. longer than the pass. side. the new coils that I bought had a tag that said mount on "drivers side". so cut a bit more on that side. I'v never been able to get both sides exactly the same height.

 

Right, now I've got it. We're having some pretty ordinary weather at the moment where I am so that might be a good rainy afternoon project in the shed.

Interesting that you mention that there's a driver's side and passenger side coil. I bought my new coils from an Australian company here and no-one mentioned anything about the coils being different lengths, I would hope if that was the case they would've told me.

 

Just thought I'd update how I'm going with this.

Took my truck into the truck alignment place this morning. When I spoke to him the other day he mentioned that he has a gauge of some sort that he clamps to various parts of a truck's chassis to check for straightness/alignment so I figured I'd get him to check mine while it was there.

My left hand (passenger side) camber is now at 0.7 deg. positive and the right side (drivers) is at 1.2 deg. positive which is kind of close to what I was seeing using my inaccurate backyard method.

I don't want to lower the front end any more so I guess that's the camber I'll have to live with, the vehicle certainly drives a whole lot better now with the camber closer to 0 degrees.

The front end guy seems to think that both beams are the same angle so that clears that question up.

I'd explained to him that I was trying to find out why the driver's side of the body was sitting lower at the front and he figured out that the rear driver's side spring pack had sagged about 20mm more than the passenger side. I'll either get new spring packs for the rear or what I might do in the meantime is get the rear leaves reset (which I was planning on doing anyway to finish lowering the rear) and get them both set to the same height. Hopefully if the rear end is level it may correct the error that I'm seeing at the front.

I measured from the chassis rails to the ground on both sides and at the back of the tub I had 485mm on the driver's side and 500mm on the passenger side. Measuring from the back of the cab gave me 386mm driver's side and 393mm passenger side.

The frame/chassis was checked and it's actually reasonably straight and level.

While I was crawling around with the tape measure I noticed that the tub also sits higher on the passenger side so that's something that will need to be addressed when the body is taken off for paint.