I have a 69 SWB that has been dropped 3" in front and 4" in the rear, however the truck still does not have a good looking "Rake" to it, still kind of sits level looking. The front I used 3" drop I beams and a shackle kit in the rear. If I cut one or two coils out of the front springs would that give the desired look ? And can the springs be cut without causing any problems ?

 

no, you cut the springs and you will cause tire wear on the inside. and thin it will really look wrong. you may be able to find a shop to bend the I beam but that is not preferable and the will need to be bent alot to compensate for a cut coil, I would not do it.

 

Rather then cut coils, you'd be better off buying a set of 2" drop coils. Just cutting the old coil witll change the spring rate dramatically. As for having an alignment shop bend the A-Arms to correct the caster, I've had it done on a couple trucks with no bad results.... Even done a couple myself using the floor tie downs and a heavy duty bottle jack in the shop and setting the camber with the camber gauge left over from the circle tracking days. I've also looked some at relocating the inner pivot point hole, and or using an eccentric bushing in the I-Beams, just have never got around to doing it, but IMO it is definitely doable if you have the fabricating skills and equipment to do some crossmember tweaking.....

 

Your dropped I beams are set where their supposed to be at if you start cutting coils or adding dropped coils you are going to create negative camber which will wear out the inside of your tires. There are only a few things you can do, 1. have a shop bend your i beams the right way. 2. You can install air bags and set it low for shows and stock for long drives. 3.You can bodydrop your truck which is a lot more work but it will work.

 

Prior to selecting my dropped beams I spoke to a couple of owners who cut the coils to correct camber issues introduced by the aftermarket beams. My truck is not roadworthy yet so I cannot personally attest. I agree with using dropped springs but it may be worth while to cut and measure (a little at a time) on some junk yard specials prior to the expense of the new springs.

 

good decision, i never like the flat level look, all fords in my opinion should sit slightly lower in the front than the rear but wierdos always try to level them out

 

You have aftermarket beams? They are not forged like the old beams. So if you try to bend them you will need to buy a new set to replace them. You can modify the mounting points to adjust for the drop springs. You will loose alot of travel though. If you want much more than 5 inches then IFS is your only option.

 

which lowering kits did you buy? I bought AIM lowering i beams and the shackle kit for the rear on my 68 ranger and it sits a little lower in the front than the rear.......it actually looks pretty good to me........but i did have to change my tire size in the front because the tires rubbed when i made a sharp turn. i was running 255/60/15 all the way around on stock 8 inch wheels, then i went to a 225/70/15 on the front on the same wheels.
the front end has alot of travel still, about 3 1/2 to 4 inches, but the rear on my truck rides a little rougher than i thought it would, but i am still happy with the way it looks.
DO NOT try to bend the ibeams! as mentioned above, you will end up buying another set.
I dont see any problem with adding 2 inch lowering springs as it would be no different as adding a set with a stock i beam installed. BUT adding lowering springs to the lowering i beams will reduce your travel in the front end to almost nothing and will probably bottom out with you on most roads. so with that i will ask.........what tire size are you running?

 

i am not going by experience but i heard that if you purchase the aftermarket drop beams that you cannot modify those at all. i did get a stiffer ride with my cut coils but the look i got is just about the same as a 3'' drop beam. i went to an alignment shop here and he suggested that the spring perches be cut and repostitioned. i didnt think much into that but that was his suggestion.

 

If you cut the springs remember, according to the spring mfg. that I spoke with, cut only 1/2 of the height of the drop you want. If you want 2" drop, measure down vertically 1" inch on the spring and then cut. I don't think spring rate will change unless it is a variable rate coil, which they are not. You can call any spring mfg. and confirm this. I cut my springs 1" for 2" drop and my front wheels still have positive camber \ /...I think I could cut more and not worry about tire wear. A slight negative camber would actually be preferable for handling...../ \. Does anyone have the specs for recommended camber on these trucks?

 

I don't know what the specs for the camber is on these trucks but if i'm runing some expensive tires I would like my camber to be like this l l .

 

i ended up cutting out 2 3/4 coils out of the passenger side and 2 1/2 out of the driver. and those were brand new springs also. i read that for some reason there is a difference but not sure why. if you figure that 6 cyl. springs will give an extra drop if you have a big block... think again. it doesnt matter at all.

 

i think that way back when i first cut some springs on one of these trucks, i cut about 1 ring out and it looked good. any more than that and you will have to go and get the i beams bent to get back to the correct camber. i will tell you that it will ride like crap if you go anymore when cutting the springs. you have to remember that when you cut the springs you are decreasing the ride travel of your springs..........it will bottom out alot easier!

 

Hey Marz-68, awesome stance, is this bagged or do you just have drop beams and cut coils ?

 

No beams here it has a custom made Mustang II front suspension and 2600 contitec air bags.